I started off today having a leisurely morning with Jess, as she was busy in the kitchen I focused on some arts n’ crafts time by building a 10″ long pigtail with 25-DSub connectors on each end.  One end of the pigtail connects to the Trig TT22 transponder while the other connects to the GRT adapter that allows the HXr EFIS to remotely control the Trig TT22.  The other side of the adapter will plug into a D-Sub connector that goes to the HXr.

Now the question: Why?  Because I originally planned to have the Trig TT22 mounted on the TOP shelf of the Tri-Paragon —OR— out in the end of the right strake.  But after deciding to mount my ELT antenna in the nose I found that after making up a bracket the transponder fit hanging off the right side of the Tri-Paragon’s top shelf… sort of.  To be clear, there was no clearance for it to fit on the shelf top.

All but for that GRT serial adapter.   With the TruTrak ADI installed there is simply no room for the adapter.  I figured we’re talking electrical signals here, so a quick call to GRT to let them know my eevil plan to remotely mount their serial adapter… that ironically let’s one remotely mount the transponder.  They saw no issue with my scheme.

I did a bit of research last night, but did a deeper dive today on Radenna SkyRadar ADSB-in receiver install per the manual.  As noted above with the Trig transponder, figuring out where to mount components has significant consequences to not only that respective unit, but can have 2nd, 3rd and 4th order affects on other stuff as well.

Since I originally planned on the transponder antenna being in the outboard right strake vs the nose, all was good with mounting the SkyRadar receiver either on top of the NG-30 cover (original plan) or on top of the canard.  However, with a quick check in the SkyRadar manual it states that it’s an absolute no-go to have the 978 MHz or 1090 MHz antennas mounted within 4 feet of the ELT antenna.  Ugh. (BTW, 4′ away is the bottom aft edge of the pilot thigh support where it meets the flat pilot seat “pan”).

The only saving grace is that the SkyRadar antennas can be popped off and remotely mounted, and they’re not that big (~6″ long per antenna)… only requiring buying or making the cables required to remotely mount them (again, a common practice with the RV bubbas).

So [once again] a minor install task has morphed into a significantly more involved project.

In other news, I found the culprit preventing my panel indicator lights Push-to-Test switch from popping fuses.  Again, my bad in not fully reading the wiring diagram correctly as I hamfistedly installed the new AP SERVOS OFF/PCS indicator light. A fact I quickly discovered after doing connectivity tests on my PTT wiring circuits.

A correct rewiring of the AP SERVO indicator light should have it back in the mix in short order.

I spent a few hours taking it easy after my late afternoon fun-with-wiring activities above since I had a killer headache… a rare malady for me.

But the shop lights were still on as I kept telling myself I would get back out there to knock out more stuff… which ended up just me fusing the RAM air scoop butterfly valve switch/actuator circuit.  The only panel indication that all these components are functioning as designed is the RAM AIR OPEN indicator, and yes, both switch and actuator worked a treat.

Nice… another power-up test on another component circuit tested good.

And with that, I called it an earlier night than usual.  I plan on being back on the build hot n heavy tomorrow.