Project Update

Hi Folks,

All the winglet attachment layups are complete!  My next focus over the next couple of days will be on getting the rudders installed and the Internal Rudder Bellhorns dialed in to work with each respective rudder cable out of the engine compartment. 

I will then transition full-bore into working the top cowling install and actual engine install.  

After all the airframe build tasks are completed then it will be topside micro finish for prime/paint.

Currently I have no other major trips planned, and from here on out I intend to focus solely on the plane for the next however long it takes to finish this bird… ASAP!  


Chapter 20 – Lower winglet final glass

I started off today by doing final prep for the right lower winglet aft side trough, the area that sits below the rudder.  To be clear this layup also links the aft lower winglet to the Layup #3 glass.

I then whipped up some wet micro and applied it to the blue foam.  I also created a micro fillet at the edges of the blue foam for a transition to the glass sides.

I then laid up the prepregged 2 plies of BID into the lower winglet trough.  Again, this layup goes a good ways into the Bellhorn pocket and overlaps both onto the Layup #3 glass and the lower inside walls of the upper winglet, tying this lower winglet layup to the existing structure in multiple ways.

Jumping ahead, a few hours later I razor trimmed the layup.

I then did the same thing on the left side.  I will note that when I was thinning down the foam inside the Internal Bellhorn pocket I inadvertently dug into into the foam and knocked a decent sized divot out of it.  Thus, I need a big blob of dry micro to fill in the void I mistakenly created.

Again, jumping ahead quite a few hours, I razor trimmed the layup.

I then spent a good little bit of time forming the left and right rudder return springs from 3/32″ piano wire.  As anyone who has attempted to work with this wire, it is not a task without a good bit of effort . . . a vise is definitely required.

Not shown is the work I did to take the raw cut end of each spring and create a loop 90° to the spring rotation to allow attaching the spring to one of these hooks.

I then spent another good little bit of time using the Dremel tool and then hand file shaving down around 0.010″ off the inside of each arm end of the Internal Rudder Bellhorn that holds the AN111-C3 bushing, from 0.05″ thick down to around 0.04″ thick.  To still allow free movement of these bushings, I also shaved the sides of them down as well by about 0.010″ off each side with the Dremel tool.  All this Dremel and hand filing work —although not necessarily pretty— now allows free movement of the AN111-C3 bushings in the end of the Internal Bellhorn arms.

Looking back over the day’s work it doesn’t seem like I really go a lot done, but much of it was very time consuming tasks.  So, with that, I called it a night.

Chapter 20 – Rudder install tasks

I started off today by first removing the large stir sticks that were hot-glued in place off the left and right rudders.

I had planned on having to remove the rudders and remount them a number of different times to gain the required gap spacing needed for them to pivot outboard the required 22-26° as per the High Performance Rudder plans.

However, with a little craftiness I discovered that I could sand the edges that I needed to in situ and not remove the rudders at all.  Time saved: Excellent!

The 3 main surfaces required to be trimmed in loose sequence are: 1) the bottom inboard edge of the rudder, 2) the top inboard edge of the lower winglet, and 3) the top outboard edge of the lower winglet.

I knew without doubt that with my rudder configuration that I’d be creating a decent gap on the inboard interface between bottom rudder and top lower winglet. In fact, this is the point of initial interference: the sharp forward bottom corner of the rudder hitting the edge of the forward couple inches of the inboard lower winglet edge.

After clearing the inboard edge clearance hurdle, the last and persistent clearance issue until the rudder is at its full pivot arch outboard is between the front half of the bottom inboard rudder edge and the outboard edge of the lower winglet.

In fact, to give myself a head start I went ahead and took my flat Perm-A-Grit sanding tool and created about a 1/16″ to 3/32″ gap on the outboard lower winglet to bottom rudder seam… sanding this edge downward, taking down the edge a bit of the lower winglet (pic below).  Once I did this, all the sanding was on the progressively forward edge of the inboard bottom rudder (pic above).  Essentially creating a slight upward curve of the bottom rudder edge as it goes forward.

I then checked my angle on the rudder outboard extension.  I will note that as I write this post I referred to the Hight Performance Rudder plans and it shows the angle at the very top of the rudder, so I might try that out of curiosity… because what angle are we actually measuring?  There is clearly a significant curve of the winglet, as it has a camber, so do we extrapolate from center line?  Hmmmm?

Regardless, my goal here was to have the rudder able to swing outboard free and clear with its only constraint being when the Internal Bellhorn hits the inside wing end.  The eventual determinant of max angle will be cable length (to a degree with the spring in the mix) and rudder/brake pedal configuration.  I just don’t want to possibly tear up the edges of the inboard rudder/outboard lower winglet by having these things scraping against each other… or worse, jamming at “full” rudder swing out.

For reference, at about midpoint between the lower and middle hinges, my measured rudder out angle is 29.2° so I’m calling it good… except I think I still have about another 1/4″ before my Bellhorn arm tip kisses the wing rudder cable conduit opening.

Again, for both reference and curiosity, my right rudder out measurement is 4-1/8″.

Compared to the left rudder, which is 4-1/4″… clearly a bit more aggressive sanding on my interference edges over on the left side.  Meaning my rudder Bellhorn arm is a bit closer to the wing edge.

Sorry for the blurry pic, but the info remains the same: left rudder out angle is 30.6°, measured in about the same spot as the right rudder.

I have a bit of a unique situation that makes my whole rudder cable install require a significantly higher level of precision than a “normal” rudder cable install.  I think in the end it will be very beneficial and an operational plus, but it really almost eliminates any room for error on getting the Bellhorn cable end AN111-C3 swaged into place.

What am I talking about?  Well, when I first started building, one of the Old Guard builders told me what rudder cables to buy, and to order them pre-terminated from Aircraft Spruce. Starting out, when you have only a basic understanding of all things build-related advice is great, but what you don’t have is the experience to exactly understand what skills and knowledge is required to complete the task.

Here are my pre-terminated cables that make up my engine compartment rudder cable quick disconnect.

The pre-terminated cable ends would eliminate the need to make up the plans cable attach fitting in the engine compartment.

Clearly with my pre-terminated rudder cables meeting in the engine compartment, it means that I have to ensure I have my ducks in a row cable-length wise going out to the rudder and forward to the pedals, and spacing wise inside the engine compartment to allow for cable movement without jamming up on the Nylaflow conduits on either side.

Since I have never swaged a cable before, I simply used a spare AN111-C3 at the very end of the untrimmed rudder cable to get an idea of what I was doing with this whole swage thing.  I’ll simply lop this off and terminate at the correct cable length after I test out the rudder pivot with the cable connected to the Internal Bellhorn.

My swaging, although cumbersome with the required wrench work. seemed to go fine.

You’ll note that I thinned down the AN111-C3 cable bushing with the Dremmel tool for some reason… why?  Well, in talking to Chrissi from the Cozy Grirrls a while back, she warned me that these AN111-C3s are a hair over 0.15″ thick, while the spacing in the Rudder Bellhorn for it to get mounted into is only 0.13″.  Clearly over 0.02″ needs to come off somewhere for this bushing to work.

This was a test run in part to check out how a thinned AN111-C3 would swage and hold on the cable.  My final determination is to take a bit off the inside of each Bellhorn arm tab and then a bit off of each face of the AN111-C3.  That leaves a hair more meat on the AN111-C3 bushing faces.   Yep, always something!

[Note the carved out foam on the lower winglet… see below]

The good news is that apparently my left Internal Rudder Bellhorn configuration is good enough to give me full, unhindered left rudder pivot action right out of the gate.

BTW, to take the pic above I jammed a soft split wood stir stick into the Nylaflow to keep the rudder cable from slipping back outboard.

Although I carved out the foam on the last exposed foam face in my rudder/winglet setup: the lower winglet, I didn’t highlight it on the left side.  Here we have the same area on the right lower winglet with the foam removed for glass prep.  Tomorrow I’ll prep the glass edges and lay up a couple plies of BID in this lower trough.

A task I also did on the left side but am just now documenting for the right side is removing all the tape and cleaning up the glassed edges of the Internal Rudder Bellhorn arms.

Tomorrow I’ll continue my quest to get the rudders rigged and functioning with the wing side rudder cables installed.  The fuselage side rudder cables will be completed within the next few weeks when I get some brackets made up for the rudder cable conduits exiting out of the CS spar on each edge of the firewall.


Chapter 20 – Right rudder install

I started out this morning by pulling the peel ply from the right wing/winglet Layup #4.  I’m happy to report that the layup looked good.  I then spent a little bit razor trimming overhanging glass and cleaning up the peep ply seams.

In addition, since it had been well over 24 hours since I completed Layup #4, I also took a good half hour to carefully remove the 1×2 wood support strut.  Now the right winglet is mounted and free standing on its own just as the left winglet.  Both winglets are officially mounted!

I then remounted the left bottom rudder hinge with the temp bolt to gage the gap, which I measured at 0.042″ wide… much more than the gap above it and this gap itself that I had measured originally.

I then removed the K1000-3 nutplate, widened the hole towards the aft side (hinge pin) by 0.04″ and then remounted the nutplate.  When I remounted the rudder here, I remeasured the gap at 0.017″… a much, much more acceptable gap 0.025″ less than what I had with the nutplate in its previous position.

Left rudder fixed.

With the left rudder good, I then moved onto the right rudder.  I carefully sanded down the forward and top edges of the right rudder where I had added internal rudder pocket glass, and then subsequently trimmed that glass.  I sanded down the added glass back to the original line of where I cut out the rudder from the winglet.

Here we have the fine-trimmed/sanded right rudder set back in place inside the right winglet. I’ll note that the seam between the rudder and winglet looked less than a 0.5mm pencil mark.

I then set the right rudder hinges in place, ensuring that they were set level and even with each other using a straight aluminum edge.  After marking up the rudder hinge rivet locations, I then drilled and clecoed the outboard rivet points on each hinge.  Here I’m verifying that the right rudder hinges are aligned with each other.

I then set the right rudder in place with the hinges set in position and transferred the final hinge positions to the winglet.

On the left winglet I cut the rudder hinge notches at 0.2″ deep, which is what is called out for in the plans for the aileron hinges.  I’m not exactly sure why, perhaps the sharper angle, but the bottom hinge winglet notch on the left side is simply too wide and resulting gap at the hinge is a bit too big appearance-wise, although operationally there is no impact.

I had planned on cutting out the right wight hinge notches 0.18″ deep, but then settled on 0.185″ deep.  Here I’ve cut out the right winglet rudder hinge notches at 0.185″ deep.

Also, to be clear —even though I didn’t grab any shots of this— at each hinge mounting location both on the rudder and the winglet I trimmed the glass so it was angled at 45°, allowing the beveled area of the hinge near the pin to not interfere with the hinge sitting flat in its pocket.

Oddly, just as on the left, the top and middle hinge notches on the right winglet are good, with minimal gaps.  However, the bottom hinge again has a gap just a tad wider than what I would prefer.  Not a show-stopper, just a preference issue.

I’ll note that once again the gap at the edges between rudder and winglet were nice and tight, looking good as well.

With right rudder hinge spacing and alignment looking good, I then drilled and riveted the rudder hinges in place using the BSC-44 countersink rivets.

Prior to setting the rudder back into place in the winglet, I used the same foam wedges as I did on the left side to secure the hinges flat against the inside winglet hinge pocket for drilling out the screw holes.

However, I noted the issue on the foam wedge for the bottom hinge and realized it wasn’t wide enough just behind the hinge, so I stuffed in a couple stir sticks and piece of cardboard to provide a filler for the unwanted gap.

Here we have the right rudder going back into the winglet.

With the right rudder back into the winglet, I verified that its position looked good and gaps were acceptable (again, they are very tight) and then taped the rudder tightly into the winglet rudder pocket.

I then drilled a single 3/16″ hole into bottom screw position for both the top and middle hinge, and at the middle screw position on the bottom hinge (remember that currently I only have 3 K1000-3 nutplates on hand).

Here are closeup shots of the right rudder hinges drilled screw positions on the winglet side.

If you look closely, you can see the added stir sticks on the bottom hinge foam wedge to keep the hinge securely pressed up against the inside winglet pocket.

I then riveted my last 3 remaining K1000-3 nutplates on hand to the right rudder hinges.

And bolted the right rudder back in place inside the right winglet.  Voila! The right rudder is installed!

Again, some closer up shots of the right rudder bolted installed in the winglet.  Note the gaps… I’m very pleased with how tight they are.

To be clear, these bolts/screws I’m using here are easy to get in and out so I am using them to temp install the rudders just as I did with the ailerons.  After micro finish I’ll will drill countersinks and install the Mike Melvill style flat stainless steel hex-drive countersunk screws to make it all look nice and fancy, with no ugly button head screws hanging in the wind.

A wide angle view showing both right and left rudders installed back into the winglets.

And a shot looking at the inboard side of the right rudder installed into the winglet.

And finally, a closer look at the inboard seam gap of the right rudder and winglet.  Looking good!

Tomorrow I’ll be heading over to hang out with some friends for a few hours, but do plan on starting on both rudder pivot clearances and also prepping the engine to mount the lower cowling.

Chapter 20 – Right Layup #4 complete

I started the right wing and winglet Layup #4 this morning with a small flox fillet at the inside corner, as I did on the left side.  This is to ensure no air bubbles work their way into the corner.

I also slathered up the areas on the wing and winglet that will receive glass with raw epoxy.

Here we have the 2 base plies of BID laid up before the 7 plies of UNI go on.

Speaking of UNI, also like the left side, I prepregged the first 3 plies of UNI (1-3) together —on the right below— and plies 4-6 together, which are on the left below.  Here I’ve wetted out the first set of UNI and have almost finished wetting out the second set.  Ply 7 is on its own, up top.

I then laid up the first set of UNI, plies 1-3.

And then the second set, plies 4-6.

Here the plastic sheeting is still on.  I took this shot to show that on Layup #4, versus the outside corner Layup #3, placing the UNI is a bit trickier because of the curve of mainly the winglet, but a bit of the wing too.  The center of the layup is fine, but the outside edges in the corner have to be “pushed” further in that then pulls the UNI fibers in towards the corner on each side, while the center fibers are happy from the start.  This messes up the original planned, marked spacing a little bit… no big deal, just something to be aware of.

I then pulled the plastic from prepreg setup 2 above, and then added the last ply 7 of UNI to complete Layup #4.

I then peel plied the entire Layup #4 and left it cure.

Now on to rudder installs, but first . . .

I’m having a slight possible issue with my rudders that I wanted to investigate more fully.  The top and bottom “horizontal” edges of my rudders are not exactly parallel to each other, which I’ve confirmed by measuring them (of course I did this early on too, slightly different results!).

With the winglets unmounted it certainly looks as though the top edge and bottom edge are parallel to each other.  Then when the winglets were mounted and the top rudder edge was cut horizontal, I assumed that the bottom rudder edge would be horizontal as well.

Now, I did trim the bottom edges to match each other and be even with W.L. 18.2.  On the right the cut was a bit more at an angle down, so I could see inducing this seemingly nose-down slant on the bottom rudder’s edge.  But my cut on the bottom left rudder was virtually a straight trim with no angle… and my unscientific string pulled at W.L. 18.2 again shows a straight LEVEL cut.

Again, I didn’t employ the laser (yet) but going from the corner (to lessen the string length and support the level weight) forward to the wingtip shows virtually level with the longerons close to level.

Hmmm, a mystery?  I’m on the fence of “fixing” this or leaving it.  My inclination of the mismatching, seemingly un-parallel top and bottom rudder edges is to leave them and evaluate further after I hack up the gaps so that they can pivot freely anyway.  Probably more to come on this later.

I then grabbed my Fein saw and did a very close trim of the Layup #7 pocket glass on the right rudder.  I didn’t sand it yet as I just wanted to get the really noisy part out of the way earlier in the evening.

I then pressed forward with the left rudder install.  I started by verifying the matching hinge position marks from the rudder to the aft winglet edge.  I then cut out the hinge notches on the winglet side to 0.2″ deep.

Here is the rudder back in place after I cut the winglet hinge notches.  I’ll note that with the rudder trailing edge even with the winglet TE that my max gap between rudder and winglet is less than 0.02″

I then verified the alignment of the hinges to each other with a long straight edge.  The middle hinge needed to be pivoted upward (outward/forward) on the bottom side literally maybe 0.010″ max.  So I started on the bottom and top hinges to get them riveted into place.

Another minor issue I ran into was the BSC-44 countersunk rivets are 120° countersinks, and I only had the “standard” 82° and 100° countersink bits on hand.  I thought for a bit and did a quick check, and sure enough my drill bits on hand have 118° tips… close enough.  If 2° in fiberglass and aluminum is going to knock me out of the running, then I have much deeper issues… ha!

I also grabbed this pic to show that I rarely use a drill when making countersinks in fiberglass, phenolic and often even aluminum, but rather do a few iterations by hand and check for acceptable fit/depth.

With the hinges riveted in place to the rudder, back on it went AFTER I had marked & drilled 1/16″ holes in the aft winglet edge denoting the winglet side hinge screw positions.  The screws are all on 2.4″ spacing for both the 4″ and 6″ hinges (both pics below).

It was now time to add in some nutplates and get this rudder installed.  I have to say I’m not sure if I misplaced a bag of K1000-3 nutplates, which wouldn’t shock me.  But all I had in my little K1000-3 hardware drawer were 6 nutplates.  Ugh! More inventory control problems, caused by that slacker worker… me!

I decided to simply use 1x K1000-3 per hinge for the next 5 days until I get a big batch more in (I dropped an order as soon as I came in the house) or find a bag of them somewhere in this shop (I looked and tend to think I don’t have more on hand).  This would allow me to get both rudders installed to a point of being functional in checking travel, edge gap clearances, etc.

Now I just needed to figure out how to keep the hinges pressed up tight against the inside surface of the winglet to drill the screw holes.  I decided to use some scraps of blue wing foam since it’s rigid enough, but I can cram it down in the hinge pocket around and over the protruding pop rivets without any major hassle or harm.

As I put the foam encumbered hinges into the winglet hinge pocket, it seemed to keep the hinges pressed in tightly against the inside winglet pocket surface.

A quick aside on my winglet and rudder hinge pockets.  I took Ary Glantz’s advice off his blog and made mine 1.25″ inches deep vs the plans 1″ deep.  By the time I sanded down the internal pocket foam I was at  minimum of 1.25″ deep, probably more around 1.3″ deep.  This eliminates the need to trim down the hinges for them to fit… a hidden little surprise that builders find out about if they keep their pockets at the plans 1″ depth.

I then duct taped the rudder tight against the winglet to keep the gap between rudder and winglet as tight and minimal as possible.

I then drilled all 1/16″ pilot holes through the hinges and 3 of the holes, one in each hinge, out to 3/16″.  Maybe should’ve waited on drilling all the pilot holes… read on.

I then riveted a K1000-3 nutplate to each single (for now) screw hole in the left rudder hinges.  I made up a template to keep the angles exactly the same for each nutplate, but the distance to the hinge edge of each hole is just a hair different on each hinge, so the angles are very slightly different… good thing these things are going on the INSIDE of the rudder! <wink>

I then set the rudder back into position on the left winglet.  I quickly noted that the top hinges are spot on with the position of the screw-secured hinge.

However, the gap at the bottom hinge means that my screw hole ended up about 0.025″ aft of where it needed to be.  The gap is just too wide, and with the screw out and minimal pressure I can push the rudder foward and close that gap up.  So the screw hole and nutplate position will need to be tweaked to close this gap back up to where it needs to be…  note that the screw is not in the hinge in the pic below: this is the rudder’s natural resting position and gap.

Besides my K1000-3 inventory and the bottom rudder hinge screw SNAFU, I’m really happy with how the left rudder is going in so far.  I have no major gaps or misalignments betwixt rudder and winglet, other than those that are self-inflicted.

Clearly I’ll need to work the gap clearances top and bottom to allow free and unhindered rudder travel, but that is all part of the natural progression of the rudder installs (note: the slight rudder/winglet gap below is from the outboard popsicle sticks pushing on the lower winglet and springing the rudder outboard… this is due to me removing the inboard popsicle stick that countered this effect).

Again, it was another very late build outing, so I called it a night and headed into the house to order some K1000-3s!  Tomorrow I’ll continue on with my rudder install shenanigans and may start working on getting some of the engine cowling stuff figured out.


Chapter 20 – New hangar & rudder tasks

I got a late start today since I had to work an insurance policy and get some FAA N# info to the airport in order to accept my new hangar!

Here are a bunch of pics of the newly built “hurricane proof” hangars that replaced the old ones —one of which I had when I first moved down to NC in August 2019.  Note the view I have out the front of my hangar: the ramp, runways and even water!  No surprise that I’m pretty happy with it… Now I just need to put a Long-EZ in it!

Ok, one last interior hangar pic.

I had a few more things to do when I got home, so I got a later start in the shop.  My first task was to clean up the seam between the right winglet and wing, which of course has a couple blobs of Bondo and a bunch of hot glue.

I first cleaned out the Bondo blobs . . .

And then the hot glue and wood blocks.

Here we have the seam between right wing and winglet ready for Layup #4 glass.

My issue was that it was getting fairly late, since I got such a late start.  I decided to make a good bit of noise early and simply prep for Layup #4 to knock out first thing tomorrow.  I’ll note that tonight was quite a cold night —near freezing— so the shop was in the low 60s temp-wise.

So in making more noise, my first task was to remove the 3-foot wood support strut on the left winglet.  Clearly this is a big milestone as the left winglet is officially mounted.

I then used my good chop saw to cut the hinges for the rudders.  After I cut the aluminum hinges, I then set the hinge pin in place in each hinge set and cut the pin with the Dremel tool.  Lastly, I hit each cut end with a file to debur any rough edges.

I then cut the right rudder Layup #7 —inside pocket— glass with the Fein saw, as I did the left rudder last night.

I then very carefully trimmed down the left rudder and sanded the edges back to the original cut line.  I then set it back in place in the left winglet.

I then spent a bit of time aligning the rudder hinges to ensure they were even and level with each other before drilling and cleco’ing them into place.

I then set the left rudder back into the winglet and marked the final rudder hinge positions onto the winglet. Since I moved the bottom hinge up to edge of the top line to ensure clearance with the Internal Bellhorn pocket, I went to move the middle hinge up about 0.15″… but after all the finagling to ensure it was aligned with the other hinges, it ended up being about 0.2″ higher.  Clearly no biggie, just explaining why its position is a little off vs the original marks.

I then got back to the quiet part of my evening: marking up the Layup #4 prepregged UNI plies 1-3 and 4-6 layup positions on the right wing and winglet.  I then cut the 2 foundational BID plies.

And prepregged 2 sets of Layup #4 UNI: plies 1-3, and plies 4-6.

It was fairly late at this point, so I called it a night and headed into the house. Tomorrow first thing I plan to knock out the right wing & winglet Layup #4.

Chapter 20 – Left Winglet Layup #4

Today I started out by cleaning out the Bondo and hot glue from the junction of the left winglet to the left wing.

I started by removing the Bondo…

and then the hot glue and the wood blocks.

I then sanded, cleaned up, and prepped the junction and all the areas that will receive glass for Layup #4.

I then used my paper template to figure out how the UNI plies would be situated, followed by my plastic sheet template to determine the size and shape of the 2 BID plies.

Here are the markups for the two sets of prepregged UNI plies: 1-3 and 4-6.

Here we have the Layup #4 UNI plies prepregged in prep for glassing. Note that the UNI is in 2 prepreg sets: Plies 1-3 and Plies 4-6.  Ply 7 will be added without prepreg.

In prep for the BID layups I added a small flox fillet at the junction of the left winglet to the left wing.

I then laid up the 2 plies of BID for Layup #4.

After wetting out my first set of prepregged UNI, plies 1-3, I laid them up on the inside junction of the left winglet and wing.

I then laid up the next set of prepregged UNI, plies 4-6, for Layup #4.

I then laid up UNI ply 7, which completed Layup #4.

I then peel plied the left winglet’s Layup #4.

I then used my trusty Fein saw to trim the Layup #7 glass on the left rudder pocket.  This was a rough trim to get all the overhanging layup glass removed.  Later I’ll take my time and trim down to the line before sanding the edges to to their final configuration, just as I did on the winglet pocket.

Tomorrow will be rinse and repeat on the right side as I plan to knock out Layup #4 and also trim the right rudder’s Layup #7, just as I did for the left side today.

Chapter 20 – Rudder Layups #7 done

I started out this morning by micro’ing up the blue foam inside the rudders.  I then started laying up the 3 plies of BID inside each rudder, followed by 2 local plies of BID at each hinge location. Two of the 3 long plies of BID wrap up around the corner to the top where I dug out the foam per plans around 0.6″ deep.

Here we have both rudders with blue foam micro’d, both wet and dry, with the first ply of BID in on one of the rudders.

Here’s the completed Layup #7 in each rudder.  Note that when I cut the bottom of each of the 3 long BID plies, per side, I had to make a notch in the BID 1″ deep x 1.7″ wide to allow the glass to go around the already installed Internal Rudder Bellhorn.

I then spent a good half hour plus on each winglet rudder trough Layup #6 edges, fine-trimming the glass and sanding it down to the original cut line.  A bit tedious and painstaking, but the results look really good.

Afterwards, I spent a good hour+ rearranging the shop and repositioning the fuselage and wing dollies to allow space to re-mount the wings, which Jessica helped me do.

Here’s a bunch of shots of the wings —with winglets mounted— back on the fuselage.

Tomorrow I plan on getting at least one side of the wing-to-winglets top inside Layup #4 (2 plies BID + 7 plies UNI) laid up.  I also plan to trim and sand the inside rudder layups in prep for remounting those… along with cutting and mounting the rudder hinges.

Chapter 20 – Winglets layup #6 done

I started out this morning by slathering up the inside of the left winglet’s rudder trough with wet and dry micro… I did this before I cut the required BID for layup #6 to allow the micro a bit of time to set and firm up.

I then completed Layup #6: 3 plies of BID down the trough with added 2 plies of BID locally at the hinge mounting points.  On the top (bottom here since inverted) I did 2 plies of BID inside the 0.6″ notch, which were part of the last 2 trough plies I laid up.

A few hours laters, as I was messing around with the rudders, I razor trimmed the left winglet Layup #6 glass edges.

Since the right side Layup #6 was fully cured, I needed to use the Fein saw to carefully trim away the excess glass.

On the rudders, I started by digging out a good bit of the foam in the actual shop before taking them outside to clean up the glass edges.  Note my visible sins of the past: Tacks in buried peel ply.

A bunch of the peel ply came up with a little effort, but the majority was on for good.  Again, what I know now compared to back when I first started out.

Using the Dremel on old buried peel ply is a razor’s edge… it takes a bit to get the peel ply removed, but the 2-ply UNI skin is so darn thin that I had a good number of breakthroughs.  Thank goodness 3 plies of BID are going in behind this skin because the resulting flange left after prepping it for glass feels like it’s 5 atoms thick!

Again, replete with a number of break-throughs —bruised but not broken!— the rudders are ready for glass.

I then spent a good little bit of time measuring out the BID and cutting all of it for both rudder inside Layup #7’s.  By this point it was a good bit into the evening, so I decided to hold off until tomorrow to glass the inside of the rudders.

I have to say that every time I look across the shop and see the inverted lower winglets, it reminds me of the creatures in ‘Aliens’ … I told Marco this and then cut some tape for a quick bit of fun with this pic I sent him.

And with that, I called it a night.  Will press onward tomorrow!

Chapter 20 – Final lower winglet install

Starting off, I had a few more pics but my phone ran out of memory and I got carried away deleting them in post haste fashion… yes, a few pics were injured egregiously in the making of this blog post.

I had some pics of the pour foam dams on each winglet to allow me to fill the gap between the upper and lower winglets.  Here’s the result of my pour foam shenanigans on the right winglet.

I then hacked off the excess foam and sanded them down in prep for micro and glass.

Which I then slathered up some both wet and dry micro on each foam strip between upper and lower winglet.

And then laid up a single ply of BID over the pour foam strip, overlapping of course onto both the lower and upper winglet.  This ply of BID also covered the previous 5″+ long BID layup just forward of the rudder, giving essentially the midpoint seam of the outboard upper and lower winglet a 2-ply layup of BID.

I had a decent amount of micro left over, so I added to it just a bit to fill in the slight depressions on each inboard seam between the lower winglet and bottom wing.  I then peel plied my micro fill.

With the lower winglets officially glassed into place, I then got busy cutting out the rudders out of each winglet.  I started on the right side and used both a taped-on metal ruler and a piece of steel stock as templates to ensure a straight cut with my Fein saw.

Here we have the template set up to cut out of the top inboard edge of the right rudder.

And the cut made!

Here’s the outboard right winglet with the templates set in place to cut out the right rudder.

And after very careful cutting, both the left and right rudders were set free from their respective winglets.

Here’s the right winglet’s Internal Rudder Bellhorn pocket,

I then got busy removing the blue foam in each winglet rudder trough, about 1,25″ deep.  I also used the Dremel tool to clean up the inside glass edge in prep for Layup #6, as you can see here on the left winglet.

And here is the right winglet rudder pocket, with the inside trough ready for glass.

I actually micro’d up the inside right winglet rudder trough before cutting the BID, to give it time for the dry micro to set up a bit .  In pic #2 on the right you can see the first ply of BID laid up in the trough.  This first ply only covers the vertical inside trough and inside edges, whereas the last 2 plies of BID overlapped into the 0.6″ deep top horizontal pocket.

It took a little bit of time to get all 3 plies of BID laid up, with an extra 2 plies locally at each hinge point… but the layup went well without any issues.  I had thought about adding some compression to the hinge reinforcement layups, but with only 2 plies of UNI the winglet skin walls are fairly thin and I didn’t want to add anything that might distort the shape… thus I left it a’ natural.

Here’s a couple closer shots of the right winglet’s Layup #6 in the books.

Tomorrow I’ll do the left winglet rudder trough and then will get to work on the actually rudders and hopefully get them glassed as well.