Yes, my friends, it’s been quite a few months since I was on this build.  Dealing with the cold weather I got into a couple of other projects, one of those being getting engaged to Jess.

Yada, yada… time to get back to building.

My first task was swapping out the desiccant in the plugs on the engine.  I broke yet another one so I taped it into place with green painters tape.  Hopefully this is sign that I won’t need them soon?! (wink)

I wanted to clear some “low hanging fruit” off the proverbial build tree before jumping back into some major tasks.  Over the last couple of days I modeled up an outline of my new 360 Avionics Mini-Uni 2 EFIS in Fusion 360 CAD to provide me a cutout template for the original composite panel.  I also verified fit and mounting screw hole size by checking the Mini-Uni 2 with the aluminum panel.

My first effort 3D printing the cutout template is the one on the right, which is a 1/2″ thick.  I then tweaked the corner chamfer sizes to match the actual EFIS unit’s, and then reprinted another version (left side) only 1/4″ thick.

As you can see, the dimensions of the 1/4″ thick 3D printed composite panel cutout template came out nicely.

I then did a general check of available spacing behind the panel for the EFIS.

And set the cutout template in space on the front to check I had enough clearance (barely, as par usual) to trim out the material.

I’ll remind ya’ll that I had surface mounted the MGL clock that was in this position, with #6 nutplates floxed onto the back side of the panel to thread the screws into.

I knocked the four #6 nutplate assemblies off the panel and then proceeded to cutout the area needed to fit the 360 Avionics Mini-Uni 2 EFIS.  To be clear —as I noted months ago— I wanted to ensure that not only with this instrument swap, but that in the future I could install virtually any 2-1/4″ instrument without having to remove all the instruments and aluminum panel to do what I’m doing now… making a lot of dust and mess!

I left the existing upper outboard screw hole tab of just the carbon fiber top skin of the original composite panel in place so I could verify fitting with the EFIS mounted to the aluminum panel (only), and having the required clearance with the composite panel.

The one fly in the ointment regarding clearance was my Autopilot “EFIS vs GPS” nav source switch.  Although this switch is a mini-switch, it has 9 posts on it and is fairly robust in size.

After some pondering and evaluation, I decided I’m not messing with moving the AP nav source switch on the panel, and that the EFIS was going to have to sacrifice a bit to make this work.

If you look closely, the case of the EFIS is actually 3D printed (not by me), and is actually fairly thick, about 0.075″.  I determined with the case thickness removed and about another 0.07″ shaved off the aluminum front bezel, I could reclaim the clearance required for the switch and press forward.

After I carefully removed the case and looked at the internal boards, and the screen components, I ascertained this could be fairly easily accomplished and set to work.

Here’s a test fit back in the panel after the surgery on the mini EFIS.

I then took the Mini-Uni 2 EFIS into the house and test fitted it into the panel with the actual switch… Voila!  The plan was successful.

Another couple of shots of the mini EFIS switch clearance notch with the switch in place.  Of course I’ll put some tape over the EFIS notched hole when I install everything to seal the case up.  I’m very pleased with how all this came out.

I then got to work draining the oil out of the engine.

My plan here was to get the oil sump oil preheater from Anti-Splat Aero installed and off the to-do list.

On the front right corner of my Superior Cold Air Induction oil sump is a horizontal port that had a threaded hex seal plug in place, from the factory.  I removed that steel seal plug and cleaned off the sealant and oil in the threads with acetone.

I then gooped up the threads on the oil sump oil preheater and installed it.  Voila!  Another task complete.

I then moved onto the bottom left side of the oil sump, where I had the rather robust steel 90° oil heat system outlet fitting installed.  Note that I do not have the hose bracket installed into the ram air induction can since I cannot mount the orange SCEET tube with this behemoth steel 90° fitting installed… it has to go.

Another reminder: welded to the 90° steel fitting is a standpipe to ensure that the oil heat system will never syphon too much and always leave the engine with at least 3 quarts of oil in the oil sump.  I removed the steel fitting and measured out the height of the standpipe (~4.5″) and then marked the new replacement brass 45° street elbow with to trim its attached standpipe to the same height.

I then installed the new brass 45° street elbow fitting into the engine oil sump port HAND TIGHT to check fitting and clearance with the orange SCEET tube (note mounting bracket back in place on the ram air induction can).  Again, although not optimal clearance, but once I torque the fitting into place I’ll have about a 1/4″ clearance.  As with all other components, this too will be monitored closely during the 40-hour test flight period.

A caveat on my being “back on the build”. . .  My local Long-EZ canardian buddy, Guy Williams, had a mishap during his annual CI last week when the A&P took the batteries out of the nose without his short-nosed EZ being in the grazing position… yep, popped right back on the winglets and crunched them a bit (not too bad).  That being said, starting tomorrow on I’ll be spending a few hours a day helping Guy get his bird fixed up.