Before I started on the NG30 stuff I marked up a P6 hinge to cut 2 each 8″ lengths & 4 each 6″ lengths out for the ailerons (enough for both wings). The aileron hinges look offset in the pic below because they are: one side must be reversed because this is how the hinges are mounted to the ailerons & wings.
I also cut out a 4″ length for the rudder (which typically takes the smaller P5 size, so I’ll just trim it down to size). For now I’ll wait on cutting the rest of the rudder hinges since I don’t have any P5 size hinges on hand, however, since I do have another P6 hinge set on hand I will probably rip it to width, and then cut the lengths out later on.
I then needed to get the canard out of the way. Before I put the canard in storage, I thoroughly checked it for any issues. The bubble I originally found just following the top skin layup right near the spar cap–which I had “popped” & re-squeegeed–had a couple of small air pockets. I drilled a few small holes and injected them with a very wet flox solution. Once I had these small bubbles filled, I let wet flox solution cure for about an hour (I used fast hardener again) before taking the canard down the basement where it awaited getting crated up for shipment back to the States.
I then started working on the NG30 plates.
I shaped the 4 small screw holes on the Outboard sides of the NG30 plates with the Dremel tool so that each nut & washer would be on a flat base.
Under the watchful eyes of my Quality Inspector (aka “Big Brother”) I used a thin film of flox on the NG8s to attach them to the Inboard sides of NG30 plates & used thick flox paste under the Outboard washer/nut assemblies to ensure that there was a flat base for the nut/washer assemblies when the flox cured.
Below are the NG30 plates complete with the NG8 plates screwed on in place.
Once I had mocked the NG30 plates up & performed a sanity check on the Chapter 13 nose components, I cleaned all the nose & nose gear related parts & took them down to the basement to await packing, shipping & storage.