Post Curing

Now it’s time to have a serious talk about my fuselage and post curing.  First off, post curing epoxy in basic terms allows the epoxy-laiden structure to be more resistant to the effects of heat.  The key thing we focus on in post curing is the glass transition temperature or Tg.  To help explain Tg, I pulled this quote off the amt composites web site:

“When a polymer system such as an epoxy is heated, significant changes occur in mechanical, thermal and electrical properties. These properties do not necessarily recover upon cooling. A considerable change in these properties can be seen above the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the epoxy. The glass transition is the temperature where the polymer goes from a hard, glass like state to a rubber like state. The epoxy will exhibit much physical strength and stiffness below the Tg.”

So what post curing does is simply drives the Tg up to a higher point.  Post curing is done by heating up the part slowly and maintaining a high temperature for a matter of hours to days, depending on the epoxy system used.  For MGS 335, that magical temp is 122° F and for MGS 285 it’s 170° F, although MGS 285 will still benefit from a 122° F post cure. My fuselage was built mostly with MGS 285, but has a significant amount of MGS 335 in it as well.

Naturally, there’s a lot of discussion out there about the benefits—or lack thereof–of post curing, especially since post curing can, to a large degree, happen naturally just by a composite aircraft sitting in the sun and having its surfaces being repeatedly heated by the sun.  My thought (from a lot of research, not my own “expertise” here as any epoxy guru) is that it’s generally not required for the canard aircraft we build.  However, I will post cure my fuselage for two simple reasons:

1.  My fuselage has a very slight twist to it.  As you can see from the weights that I piled up on top of it to keep it straight during the initial steps of my main gear install.  In building a Long-EZ, just about every sacred measurement, from wing incident to the strakes, relies on reference to the longerons.  They should be as straight as possible.  So, I hope to set the fuselage straight and then post cure it to lock it in to position as best possible.

2.  Again, since I’m building in Germany right now, I want to ensure that the fuselage maintains its shape as best possible once I get it as close to straight as possible.  Once it goes in the shipping crate I have no idea what actual route it will take from Europe back to the States.   I envision it sitting in a hot shipping container baking on the docks in Savannah, GA or some other decently warm locale.  The higher the Tg is, I figure the more resistant it will be to any structural changes.  Overkill?  Maybe.  But I figure the fuselage is the epi-center of a Long-EZ build, so I’ll try my best to get it, and keep it, as straight as possible.

Chapter 6 – Right side foam repaired!

Today I took all the Frankenstein accoutrements off the fuselage (for you lesser-refined non-French speaking folk, that would mean clamps, tape, popsicle sticks, etc. Ha!).

Cleaning up the seams and the micro doesn’t seam like it should take that long, but this took a few hours to get it back into decent shape for eventual glassing on the surface.  Also, remember that although the pics show the outside of the fuselage, the same amount of work (or more!) has to be completed on the inside.  Still, the right side lower foam is looking pretty good now and I’m please with the outcome.

Right fuselage foam repairRight fuselage foam repairThe micro looks nice, not too much contamination or ridges along the seams. Continue reading

Commencing fuselage repairs

So, here we go!  Lock & load.  Tonight I’m starting on the repairs to the fuselage damaged in transit from Virginia to Germany.  The first thing I did was to mark off the cracked and damaged areas on the lower fuselage sides (the fuselage is shown inverted in these pics).

Lower fuselage repairI marked off the minimum area possible to be removed to a) keep as much of the original foam and fiberglass intact as possible to maximize structural integrity, and b) use the least amount of foam as possible for the repair inserts.

I used a battery powered thin-kerfed circular saw and a “Fein” tool to cut out the damaged areas. Continue reading

Checking the Feather Lite Order

Today I tore into the downstairs room that will become the second of two shops here in Germany.  The main build shop will be in the single car garage.  The glass cutting, prep and small layup shop will be downstairs in my house.  It has a fairly large window that vents out to the outside, so ventilation is ok.

I have three (3) large boxes from Feather Lite currently sitting in this room.  I cracked the boxes open not only out of shear curiosity, but to ensure all the pieces were there and make sure there wasn’t any visible damage.  Two of the large boxes contain the foam cores for all my Long-EZ’s flying surfaces:  Wings, Upper & Lower Winglets, Roncz Canard & Elevators.

Feather Lite Order InventoryFeather Lite Order Inventory

The third large box contains the Upper & Lower Carbon Fiber Cowling halves that were originally designed by Mike Melvill and made off the composite plugs he designed.  The CF cowling weighs around 13 lbs, so its almost half the weight of the original glass cowling.

Feather Lite Inventory - Melvill's Carbon Fiber Cowlings

Included in the large boxes were smaller pieces for the cowlings and the instructions on how to configure the cowlings to maximize engine cooling.  Kind of cool thinking how these cowlings have such a significant part in the history of the Long-EZ!