As I was getting started in the shop I heard the UPS guy drop off my VAN’s O-320 engine baffle kit.  It was another hour before I could collect it up and inventory all the parts.  I know I will have to make both the standard mods to the baffling kit (i.e. trim for EZ cowling), but I’ll specifically have a significant mod in the forward right hand corner where RVs have their oil cooler located.

Still, I’m extremely happy I got this kit since it gets me about 80% there on getting the baffles finished and installed.  (I’d like to recognize and thank Buly again for his tip to go this direction!)

As for the build, I dug out the foam a hair over 0.25″ deep in the area at the bottom left fuselage bulkhead that I had previously “flattened” to allow for the ELT mounting bracket to be installed.

I then traced out the shape, grabbed a piece of H250 foam (to add more strength back into this somewhat critical area) and then trimmed the foam to fit.  The foam piece I grabbed wasn’t big enough so I back filled the corner with a crescent shaped piece.  For all the OCD’ers out there grabbing their inhalers, out of curiosity I just checked the price of H250 on ACS: $175 for a 2’x2′ piece!  The first piece I bought was just under $100 back in 2011, and the second piece less than $120 back in 2013.  So, it’s NOT cheap and I’m not wasting any to make something that’s getting buried in glass look perfect!

Note that you can see the 2 dots I marked up that show the front bolt positions for the ELT mounting bracket.

I then used some spare G10 Garolite pieces I had lying around to make up these 2 forward nutplates for the ELT mounting bracket.  These nutplates will get buried under the uber expensive foam above.

I then marked and cut depressions into the bottom of the H250 foam to allow the nutplates to sit flush.  I then 5 min. glued the nutplates into the H250 foam.  As the 5 min. glue was curing, I then made up a another, narrow 2-nutplate mounting plate out of G10 Garolite.

I then test fitted all my pieces/parts in prep for glassing in the H250 foam into the foam divot I started out making this AM.

After prepping the nutplates by stuffing them with plastic wrap to protect them from nasties, I then flocro’d the H250 foam –with nutplates attached– into place.  I then glassed 1 ply of UNI with the threads running in a nose-to-tail fashion, and then covered that with 1 ply of BID.  I then of course peel plied the layup.

A few hours later I pulled the peel ply, cleaned up and did some judicious sanding on the freshly cured layup.

I then shaped a piece of urethane foam for the aft 2/3rds of the ELT mounting bracket base.  At the very tail end of this aft foam piece will sit the longer, narrow 2-nutplate mounting plate.  I taped up the bottom of the nutplates in this plate, set it in place in the urethane foam and then checked the front bolt marks through the front bolt holes on the ELT mounting bracket.

When the configuration looked good, I then micro’d the urethane foam base in place to the fuselage floor with the ELT mounting bracket set in place on top (to ensure the bolt holes were aligned).  I then slid a 2×4 piece down the center of the ELT mounting bracket, ensuring that none of the bolt holes were covered up (ensuring alignment).  I then placed weights on top of the 2×4.

Here’s another shot.

After a couple of hours, I removed the weights and cleaned up a bit of excess micro that had oozed out.  I then sanded the top of the urethane foam base to match the top angle and elevation of the forward embedded foam base.

After getting a good prep in, I then glassed the aft ELT mounting bracket urethane foam base into place with 1 ply of BID.

During the evening I was able to add a bit to the mockup instrument panel.  If you notice, I redrilled the 2″ hole for the heating vent so that now it is located just above the left armrest intersect point.   I then drilled the holes for 3 switches right above the newly relocated heating vent.  I also drilled and mounted my 2 dimmers (center of center post).

Tomorrow I’ll continue on my quest to get the pilot seat area knocked out.  Now that the lion’s share of effort is out of the way on the ELT mounting bracket base, I can get back to the pilot thigh support seat and get the corner CAMLOCs installed.

Today I started out by doing a fair amount of research on my ELT placement, which was why I didn’t want to glass in the outboard thigh support tabs last night.  I’ve planned out my ELT location under the left side of the thigh support, but of course that can change if it doesn’t go in as planned.  I’m installing an ACK E-04 ELT, so I called them today and confirmed the mounting parameters.  I also learned that ACS sells a retrofit kit for this ELT, which is also a “starter” kit with just about everything but the actual ELT module.  I went ahead and ordered the retrofit kit so that I could get my hands on the mounting bracket to install that as early on as possible.

With my ELT info in hand, I then prepregged out another 2 setups of 4 plies of BID + a ply of CF.  I then glassed in the outboard thigh support tabs, placed the cover back on and weighed it down.

Here’s the results a few hours later.

While the outboard thigh support tab layups were curing, I grabbed my 1.25″ thin walled (0.035″) 6061 tubing and cut it in order to make a “T” duct for my heating system.  This “T” duct piece will sit upside down just in front of the left side instrument panel.  The air will flow straight to get to my left foot, and up to get to my upper body (via a vent).

I then entered my data on the online metal calculator, printed off a template, and then taped it to the shorter piece of tubing.

I then used my Dremel Tool to shape the end of the tube.

I then used the shaped tube to mark the longer tube.

I then Dremelled a hole in the longer tube.

My “T” duct fitting is ready to be joined.

With some excess micro, I joined the two pieces of tubing together.  I didn’t glass or rivet it, because these are such light pieces I think micro will do fine to hold them together. Plus, this is also not a critical flight component so I’m more concerned with weight than I am if it happens to break at some point in the future (again, which I highly doubt it will).

I then prepped the tops of both the left & right pilot thigh support ribs.  The task here will be to pile up dry micro and then press it down to the correct height using the thigh support top as a form.  I dug out the foam edges and then vacuumed them, plus all the foam bits scattered all about.

Here’s the whole shebang ready for some micro!

I whipped up a bunch of dry micro –after micro-slurrying the foam edges– and piled it on the top of each thigh support rib.  I then placed the top back on (see a trend here?!) and weighed it down.

A couple of hours later I pulled the pilot seat thigh support top/floor off and was quite surprised at what I found.  The micro was barely touched!  That means A) my ribs are WAY too short! and B) my thigh support top/floor plate is way sturdier than I ever imagined!

So I cleaned up the sides of the micro piles, made them even with the rib sides, and knocked off some rough spots.

I also noted that the epoxy that I had applied to the protective duct tape on the lid wasn’t even touched… I’m still surprised at how low & off these ribs are!

I was wondering a bit on just how to glass the rib sides over the new micro, but now that I have a sense of just how high the ribs need to be (there were a scant few spots of micro that were flattened), I’ll prep the micro first, then glass the sides, then add more micro… tomorrow!  From there, I’ll call it a day on the ribs because I think they’ll be in actual contact and nice and strong.

Another task I did tonight was to cut out an instrument panel blank from a piece of 1/4″ plywood.  I’ll use this as my initial test base for panel instrument placement and wiring.

I also spent a good 45 min working on the placement of my panel components.  Here you can see where I placed the instruments on the back side of the panel.  Also note that I quickly mounted the Triparagon back into place to verify how the instrument panel instruments align with it.

With the Triparagon mounted, I did a quick test fit on the GRT HXr EFIS GADAHRS.  It looks like it will fit in its planned spot nicely.

I then double checked the elevation of the GADARHS unit… also good.

Tomorrow will be more of the same!

This will be my last build post prior to Rough River!  And since I’ll be on the road visiting folks in North Carolina and Virginia, I won’t be home for another 2 weeks…. so quite the break in build action.

Today I pulled off the boards that I had clamped in place to help straighten out a rather wavy looking foam piece that I shaped into a curve for the pilot seat floor piece, which also happens to make up the majority of the pilot thigh support.

I then cleaned up the initial Kevlar layup and test fitted the floor seat piece without the boards in place.  It looks good, but still needs just a bit more persuasion to be close to spot on.

I also rounded the aft edge into a radius that I assessed as a “pleasing shape” since I plan on doing all glass to glass edges on this seat floor piece.

I then did the round #2 top seat floor layups on both the front and aft side of the piece, overlapping onto the initial Kevlar layup.  The duct tape squares you see in these pics that you might be curious about are 2 pieces of 1.1″ x 1.1″ duct tape plies covered by another 2 plies of just slightly wider duct tape.  These duct tape pads are to provide clearance on the underside of the seat floor piece for the 2 ends of the EFII fuel pump frame that juts aft. The foam over these 2 tape pads, and of course the tape itself, will be removed before I layup the underside of the seat floor.

So, at the outset of the round 2 layups, I set a square of peel ply over each of the duct tape pads and then laid up a 2″ x 2″ ply of reinforcement BID over each of the pads.  I then laid up the separate front side single plies of glass (1 BID & 1 CF) to reach aft enough to cover the tape pads.

Once I got the layups completed and peel plied, I then set the seat floor back in place and clamped it again to try and knock out some of the waviness incurred by heating it up in the curve-shaping process.

You may note that I used some carbon fiber over on the left side.  This is due to the fact that I had some scraps of carbon fiber hanging around, and I also wanted to really lock in that corner and tame an indention over on that side.

A few hours later, when the glass was about 90% cured, I removed the clamps and checked out the layups . . . all good!  Moreover, the slight indention on the left side was in fact tamed and is no longer an issue.

I then pulled the peel ply and cleaned up the layups.  Here’s a test fit of the pilot seat floor after round 2 of the top side layups.

Then it was on to round 3.  I micro slurried what little bare foam was left, and made some transitions (as I had on round 2) with thicker micro between the edges of the Kevlar and the foam.  I also filled in the divot created in the upper right hand corner where the clamp piece of wood made a distinct edge.  I actually liked the depression, but glassing it could have been a bit difficult, so I simply filled it in with dry micro.

I then glassed the second and final ply of BID on the seat floor top.  For some reason I felt like going rogue again and did NOT peel ply the entire layup, just the inside edge that will have a mini wall glassed in around the fuel selector valve.

A few hours later, after the final BID layup on the top of the seat floor cured, I then razor trimmed and cleaned up the edges, and set it back in place for a test fit.  So far I’m really happy with how this is turning out.  To be clear, it’s not perfect, but definitely good enough for this combat builder!

With the top done I got on with the task of shaping the front edges and sides of the underside of the foam seat floor.  Just like the top aft edge, these 3 sides will have a radius that will allow the glass to curve around the edge in one continuous piece to make up the edges of the plate.  Thus, every side of this seat floor plate will have micro’d corners for strength.  This obviously mandated that I had to spend a bit of time making the angled trenches along literally every exterior edge (minus the center U-shaped notch) of the seat floor plate.

I then spent a bit of time as well pulling the tape & peel ply out of the divots I created for the fuel pump frame jut-outs that I needed clearance for.  Once all the remnants of the last bit of “clinging-for-dear-life” peel ply was extracted (with much difficulty at times I might add!) I then used my ever trusty and ever awesome Perm-A-Grit tools to shape the foam edges of the 2 divots.

I should note that although the top was glassed with 2 plies, relatively there is so little mass in the U-shaped notched area that wraps around the fuel selector valve & bracket, that it was surprisingly “flimsy” for lack of a better word.  I decided to reinforce the center narrow area with a patch of BID on the bottom side, but alas I didn’t have any scrap pieces big enough . . . but then again, I did have one last piece of scrap CF hanging around.  I figured CF would provide even greater stiffness here so I threw it on there . . .  at the beginning of the 1-ply BID layup on the underside of the seat floor.  I know it may look a little unorthodox (read: nasty) but in my defense it’s the MGS epoxy’s fault, since if I had used EZ-Poxy you would have never known what it looked like!  hahaha!

Also, before I laid up the final large piece of BID on the underside seat floor, I also again laid up a scrap patch of approximately 2″ x 2″ BID over each divot & overlapping onto the foam to add reinforcement to these glass-to-glass only areas (5 plies of glass total when all is done).

It took a bit of time just to micro slurry the foam face, and then stuff thicker micro all along the mini trenches I had created along all 4 sides.  After the micro went on, to be honest, glassing up the large ply of BID was the EZ part.  However, getting the glass around the corners and sticking to the edges was a bit trickier, but in the end I got it all in place.

A number of hours later, after it all cured, I then razor trimmed the glass, sanded and cleaned up all the edges.

I have to say that I’m ecstatic with how the pilot seat floor plate layups came out!  I didn’t want bare foam on the edges that I would simply have to fill in with micro anyways, since if you’ve seen older plastic airplanes with bare foam edges on parts… well, they look really old, dry and unattractive (I guess that’s what folks say about us ‘ol dog pilots too, eh?!).

Anyway, here’s 3 pics showing the front, aft and side edges of the pilot seat floor plate:

I then of course mocked up the finished seat floor.  Ah, it fits great!

Here’s a closeup shot of the right underside divot where you can actually see the fuel pump frame jut-out (bottom pic) through the glass.  As you can tell, there’s plenty of clearance between the fuel pump frame and the seat floor plate.

Well, nothing left to do on this thing at this point other than try ‘er out!  So I set the seat floor in place, threw a towel and some padding on the pilot seat, grabbed my throttle handle quadrant and climbed in.

This first shot is exactly what I was aiming for!  The fuel selector valve is aft enough and high enough that I can actually easily see it and manipulate it during flight!  Hoo-ah!  Also, I should point out that my fuel selector valve bracket is only about 1/2″ max total farther aft than the stock plans fuel valve plate.  The difference: my valve is located at the very aft end of the plate, obviously about an inch higher, and not located center of mass on the valve plate as the plans valve is.

I then mocked up the throttle location to test it out.  I messed about with the throttle for a bit and determined that for me I had in fact picked the optimum location for this throttle quadrant setup.

Here’s a shot of the throttle handle/quadrant, fuel selector valve and control stick. Again, I’m extremely satisfied with the location, ergonomics and functionality of all these controls!

And here’s my parting shot of this post.  The throttle handle and quadrant in its planned left armrest location.

Again, this will be the last build post for the next couple weeks.  When I get back –renewed, refreshed and re-motivated– I will continue my quest to finish up the internal fuselage component configuration and install before starting on the nose & canopy!

I started out today by pulling the peel ply and cleaning up the pilot thigh support ribs. I also cut out the glass from the mouse hole on the aft side of the right rib along with the overhanging glass from the layups.

I then trimmed the bottom of the right armrest to provide clearance and eliminate any rubbing on the fuel lines.

I also notched the bottom center of the left pilot armrest with a triangular opening to allow the armrest wall to fit over the pilot thigh support wedge duct when installed.  I also had to narrow the thickness of the wall on the outboard side of it that was adjacent to the air vent plenum duct in order for it to fit in its planned location.

I then got to work on shaping the pilot thigh support seat floor.  First, I copied the thigh support rib profile onto a template.  Then I used the template to mark up a scrap piece of OSB chipboard to cut out 4 thigh support rib jigs.

I then cut out the pilot seat thigh support floor piece from 3/8″ foam, and then clamped the 4 thigh support rib jigs to the bottom of the floor piece.

I then baked the jigged & clamped pilot seat thigh support floor piece in the oven for an hour at 280°.  In hindsight, it may have a been a bit too long to bake it, but in my defense there was no bake time listed in the plans!

I had to run out for a while after I turned the oven off and the floor piece started cooling down.

When I returned, I noted that there was a bit of waviness in the front & aft edges of the floor piece since the heating of the foam apparently produced some sagging in between the clamped rib jigs.  Moreover, these “scalloped” edges were significant enough that I thought about scrapping this floor piece and remaking another one.  But I don’t like wasting foam and to be honest, I kind of like the challenge of fixing a piece that’s less than perfect and make it work.

I pressed forward with the floor piece install and started working it until it proved to be unworkable, to see if it would . . . but it didn’t.

I wanted to lock in the CORRECT floor piece profile, so I decided to do a multi-part layup starting on the top of the floor piece surface (plans has you layup the bottom surface first). Since I needed to clamp both the front and aft edge to lock in the correct shape, I further decided to start with a large central ply of Kevlar –specifically to add puncture strength to a piece that gets stepped on every ingress & egress of the plane– and then add a strip of BID on both the front and aft edges after the center area floor piece profile was better locked into shape.  After these first pieces are laid up, I’ll of course lay up a ply of BID over the entire top surface of the floor piece.

As for the Kevlar layup, I started out by microing the surface of the floor piece top where the Kevlar ply will get laid up.

I then set the ply of Kevlar in place on the top of the pilot seat floor piece.

I then wet out the Kevlar.

And then peel plied the Kevlar layup.

Tomorrow I’ll continue to glass the pilot seat seat floor piece in my attempt to both get it installed, but also to straighten out some of the front and aft edge waviness that was introduced during my heating of the floor piece foam plate.  Still, I think it should be fine.