Chapter 21 – Fuel Lines Complete!

Today I started out by pulling the peel ply off the layups from last night.  I cleaned up the peel ply edges on the 1 ply BID that I used to cover the right main tank fuel sump feed ‘alcove.’  I did have to spend a good 20 minutes on cleaning up the opening of the fuel tube because my protective tape didn’t stick so well and left some untoward flox in places it was not supposed to be.  Fun.

I then got ready to flox the main tank fuel feed lines into place at the top forward edge of each sump sidewall.  I cut & sanded the troughs in each wall to accept the tubing, but before I could proceed on the right wall, I needed to mount the fuel pulsation damper in place to avert a more difficult install later on.

I actually went back upstairs and brushed up a bit on installation techniques & methods before diving in.  Also, on a FaceBook post a few weeks back, Nate Mullins stated that he had used DEL fitting seals with very good results, and since I was getting ready to submit an Aircraft Spruce order, I put them in the basket…. talk about good timing, eh?!

Here’s a closeup of a DEL fitting seal.

After getting the pulsation damper mounted, along with the fuel line traveling aft from it to the engine (via the FT-60 ‘Red Cube’ fuel flow sensor), I then floxed in place the main tank fuel feeds to each sump tank & the sump vents.  After I got the flox set where I wanted it, I then peel plied it to match the top edge of the side walls fairly closely.

In addition, if you look closely in the pic below, you can see that I floxed a Clickbond in place for the fuel pulsation damper Adel clamp.

Here’s a shot of the left fuel line feed into the sump along with the fuel sump vent.

And here’s another shot of the right fuel line feed into the sump and the fuel vent.  Also note that the engine fuel line feed is now permanently mounted.

With the leftover flox from mounting the fuel line feeds in place, I marked up the left GIB armrest with 3 attach points.  I then marked the mounting hole locations of those 3 attach points, hollowed out the foam to create a hardpoint divot at each spot, and filled it with the leftover flox.  I also did one more hardpoint in the same manner on the aft side of the right GIB armrest [no pic].

I then spent a bit sanding down the aft sump 1-ply BID layup that I put in place by utilizing a dam.  The corners especially needed a bit of work, but after some diligent sanding I finally dialed it in.

I then prepregged 1 ply of BID and laid it up after filling a few holes with micro.  This layup completely covers the glass dam that I laid up before, and overlaps onto the fuselage floor (GIB seat pan) by an inch.  I then peel plied it and slathered a bit more with E-Z Poxy to ensure the layup was good & wet.

I then cleaned up, pulled my wings back inside the shop and called it a night.

 

Chapter 21 – Main fuel tank lines

Today I started on the right main tank fuel pickup port by marking it up & then cutting it out.  I then shaped the foam on the inside of the fuel pickup port ‘alcove’.

I then marked the inside of the fuselage where the right main tank to right sump feed line will enter into the fuselage.  The point on the right side is much higher than the left making the amount of fuel line tubing having to traverse through the sidewall much less than on the left, so the process was significantly easier in running this line.

I then drilled and widened the hole to the point it would accept a 1/2″ fuel line.

I also worked on the external side to ensure the 1/2″ fuel line could be routed into place.

Here’s a shot after I routed the right main tank fuel line feed and flared it to create a nice pickup port, and also the 1/4″ vent line that I ran from the sump.

Here’s a shot of the right main tank fuel line feed and the sump vent line (and the engine fuel feed line).

Here’s a wider angle shot showing the right side fuel feed and vent lines to the sump.

I finished up the evening by prepping to glass the right side main tank fuel pickup port, but first I used some micro to secure the left side fuel sump vent line and laid up 1 ply of BID over it.

I then glassed the right side main tank fuel pickup port and the fuel sump vent line.

Tomorrow I’ll continue to work on the fuel sump in attempt to get it knocked out over the next few days.

 

 

Chapter 21 – Quick sump update

Today I’m heading up north a bit to spend the day with some friends so it wasn’t hardly a build day at all.  I did pull the peel ply and do a quick cleanup on last night’s layups on the left main tank fuel pickup that feeds the left fuel sump tank.

I also pulled the peel ply and cleaned off some peel ply boogers from the internal fuel sump feed from the main left tank and the sump vent line to the main tank.

Tomorrow I should be back in the saddle and plan on knocking out the right main tank fuel pickup that feeds the right fuel sump tank, and the sump vent line of course.

 

Chapter 21 – Blog post from HELL!

Usually it’s a layup that can turn south and become the layup from hell, but tonight it was as if all my technology turned against me.  I couldn’t get my Gmail to synch on my phone, so every email with attached pics simply queued up and went nowhere, which may or may not have been associated with me having to reboot my home Internet router a number of times to get it to acquire a network IP address for Internet access.  In addition, I checked earlier in the week on my phone camera’s inability to focus (note that I said “phone”, not me! ha!) . . . apparently in one of Samsung’s latest updates they actually jacked up the camera function.  Their fix is to go as high res as possible on the camera setting, but that still doesn’t resolve the cat ‘n mouse game I’ve been playing with getting a number of these pics in focus. So once again, if the pics are slightly fuzzy, I apologize.

Moving on.

I started off today by pulling off the dam form/mold from the bottom aft side of the sump walls.

Here’s a closer up shot of the glass layups and micro with the peel ply still in place.

I then pulled the peel ply.

And spent a good while cleaning up the micro junk left over.

I then aggressively sanded the micro and gunk at the bottom aft side of the sump walls before trimming the glass that creates a mini wall at the bottom aft of the fuel sump.

I then stuck on a new piece of 32 grit sandpaper onto my hardboard and went to town on the upper lip since there was a decent ridge over on the left side that was about 1/8″ higher than the top edge of the sump front wall piece.  I got that all evened out and the lip close to being ready for the future floxing on of the sump top.

I then ginned up some E-Z Poxy, whipped up some micro and made some corner fillets next to the fuel drain holes to ensure that any water in the sump tanks didn’t shoot past the hole and merely sit in the corner pockets.  This of course is analogous to what is done with the fuel drain on the main tanks.

Here’s the right sump tank corner micro fillet.

And the left tank.

I then used the epoxy I just mixed to make up some flox to install the right low fuel sensor fitting into the front wall of the right sump tank.  I placed each of the low fuel sensors in the center of each tank, both almost 2″ down to keep them from constantly ringing off with false alarms.

I then set the fuel pulsation damper in position and spent a bit of time dialing in the position and tube bend of the fuel line from the pulsation damper to the FT-60 Red Cube fuel flow sensor.  In a perfect world the pulsation damper would be mounted immediately forward of the red cube, but I just couldn’t get both fitted into one spot with the space I have on hand.  In other words, I couldn’t get them paired together neither where the pulsation damper is now, nor where the red cube is in the hell hole.  For flow requirements for both, this was the best compromise and I believe the damper should still work well to smooth out any odd pulses generated by the system, and allow quicker recovery of fuel flow sensing after the fuel pump is turned off.

[NOTE: Electric fuel boost pumps are known culprits to cause the fuel flow readings to be off while the pump is on… the major drawback of mounting the red cube forward of the mechanical fuel pump, which itself doesn’t cause errant readings and is the preferred mounting (mandated) location of the manufacturer.  I’m mounting it on the cold side of the firewall since it’s way easier, safer (IMO) and besides the jumpy readings only during fuel boost pump ops –which has very minor, negligible affects on overall fuel usage data– works fine according to a large number of our RV building/flying brethren].  

Here’s a shot of the fuel line traversing through the back seat bulkhead and connecting to the FT-60 Red Cube.  Mounting the fuel line through the seat bulkhead this way of course required me to flare and terminate the fitting on the aft side, then after drilling the hole I had to then ensure I bent the tubing just right to intersect & mount to the pulsation damper before flaring and terminating the fitting on the forward side of the seat bulkhead.

Here’s a shot of the FT-60 Red Cube fuel flow sensor.  It’s hanging in space right now, but once I get a small order that I placed with ACS I’ll have the hardware to build & mount a bracket for it to attach to.  I’ll note that one of the requirements for fuel flow OUT of the red cube is to have the fuel flow upwards (specifically, not “downwards”) to ensure no reading-deviating cavitation occurs.  There should be 5-6″ of straight plumbing after the fuel exits the sensor, but many have reported that a 45° fitting has worked just fine.  With this final location I may very well be able to use a straight fitting and obtain that desired 5-6″ straight line out.  Either way, I think this configuration will be acceptable for good fuel flow sensor readings.

To prepare the left side sump accoutrements before proceeding with mounting the left armrest, I needed to mount the oil heat line reducer fittings in the fuel sump front wall left side extension.  Since I may need to tweak or modify the oil heat configuration at some point in the future, I wanted these reducer fittings “hard” mounted, but not permanently, if you will.  Thus, I used Silicone RTV to keep them in place, and slathered them up and set them in place in their respective mounting holes.

I then went to grab a bite to eat and run to the store while the RTV set up & cured.

Upon returning home, I marked up the Vance Atkinson designed main tank fuel pickup port to be used in configurations where no external fuel sumps are employed.  The other major design for this type of fuel pickup is from Ken Miller, who calls for a cigar tube shaped pickup that sticks out into the fuel tank right at the fuel tank floor level (both designs have the fuel tank floor foam removed in the immediate area of the fuel pickup port, with just glass-to-glass contact for better fuel flow into the pickup port).  Since Ken’s design calls out for fittings to be used, I opted for the simpler and cleaner (again, IMO) design of Vance Atkinson’s — albeit, to be fair I could have used Ken’s design sans fittings, but obviously went the Atkinson route.

The design for the fuel pickup port, again, is pretty darn simple and straightforward.  It calls for the glass and foam to be removed from the tank side into the sidewall until the interior fuselage glass is reached.  Then a straight bottom “shelf” is created, with an  “alcove” above it for fuel flow.  I determined the top edge of the left fuel tank floor and then marked it.  I then marked up the alcove portion of the left fuel inlet port.

I then spent a good 2 hours of sheer knuckle-busting, finger-slicing pain in getting the 1/2″ fuel line run from the internal side of fuselage up to the left fuel tank inlet/pickup port.  I was then able to coax just enough of the fuel line out to flare it to create a nice pickup funnel affect.

Here’s the interior portion of the left main fuel tank to left fuel sump tank feed line.

I then went through a smaller version of the pain I experienced before to install the 1/4″ left fuel sump tank vent line from the main tank down to the sump.

Here’s a shot of the left 1/2″ main tank fuel feed to the left sump tank, the 1/4″ left fuel sump vent line, and the oil heat return line which I added a couple of layers of heat shrink to reduce any radiating heat affect.

I sealed up the opening of the main fuel pickup tube at the main tank opening, then mixed up some more E-Z Poxy and made up some wet flox.  Then, using a syringe, I slowly injected flox on all sides of the fuel pick up line.  You can see the dark line where it filled in the spacing around the fuel feed tubing in the fuselage sidewall.  BTW, this area will get covered with a ply of Kevlar to protect that fuel line from any sharp dings or blows to the external wall of the aircraft (as will the glass-to-glass bonds in the fuel pickup area of the main tank).

I then laid up 1 piece of Kevlar inside the alcove of the fuel pickup port, and then a ply of BID over the Kevlar, overlapping onto the fuselage (future fuel tank) sidewall.  In the second pic you can see the fuel pickup tube after I floxed it in place and glassed the area in the alcove above it.  I’m leaving the area around the fuel pickup tube raw flox for now since the exact elevation of the sidewall will need to be matched to the fuel pickup tube level.  Moreover, in both pics you may note that I’ve placed the top of the fuel pickup tube around 0.25″ below the cutout line.  This is to get the fuel pickup line close to what will be the level of the glass-to-glass floor of the main fuel tank.

I then floxed around the inside entrance into the fuselage of the main left tank fuel feed and the sump fuel vent.  After floxing these lines in place, I then laid up 1 ply of BID over the entrance hole.

Here’s a closer shot.  I wanted to point out in the upper left of the pic that the external tank side fuel pickup port is just visible (note the yellowish area).

Finally, as the initial round of glassing on the left tank main fuel sump feed line & vent was complete, I then took a few minutes to pull the protective tape off the right low fuel sensor fitting that I floxed into the front wall of the right sump tank.  I cleaned up the flox a bit before calling this fitting install good.

Tomorrow will be a light build day, especially with all the issues I had with getting this blog post actually on the books!  I will be continuing working on the fuel sump and associated components until it’s pretty much completed.

 

 

Chapter 21 – Fuel sump floor

I started off today by popping off the 1.5″ taped board that I was using as an overhanging mold for the 1″ top lip for mounting the top of the fuel sump.

I then trimmed the overhanging top lip at 1″ wide using my new “Fein” saw.

I micro’d up the aft floor to dam intersection on the right sump tank and then laid up 1 ply of BID into the intersection, overlapping onto the side walls.  The pic for the layup turned out terrible so I didn’t include it here.  Of course I used E-Z Poxy.

About 4 hours later, with the glass still tacky and only about halfway cured, I jacked up the right side of the plane and the nose wheel and then poured micro into the right sump tank to create a slanted floor up to the right drain valve for water collection.  I think I used slightly less micro and didn’t post cure it quite as long as the left side, thus the striking color difference between the 2 sump tank floors.

Tomorrow I’ll press on with the thigh support sump tank build, and will most likely start working on both the top cover, the access hatches (for annuals & to swap out the Hydrants every 5-10 years).  In addition, I’ll also be working the fuel feed lines from the main tanks.

 

 

Chapter 21 – Dam it!

Today I started by cleaning up both sump tank sides with a bunch of sanding to remove the peel ply boogers, dead glass and cut down the ridges at the glass intersections.  I also wanted to ensure the floors got a good sanding, with all the shiny spots removed in prep for the micro pour I’ll be doing on each side to cause any potential water in the tanks to flow outboard and forward to the fuel sump drain valves.

In addition, I looked around for some good material to make a dam to layup a ply of glass on the aft side of the left sump tank –starting out– then after the poured micro has cured I’ll use the in place dam for the right sump tank.

After not being able to find anything, I went to the usual aviation departments at the various stores.  Finally, at Michael’s (arts & crafts) I found some balsa wood that was thin, flexible but strong enough to keep its shape.  So I bought it, came home and resumed my build task after my multi-hour mini quest.

I then prepped the balsa wood by notching each aft corner so that it’d fit in place, then I taped up the front side with clear packing tape.  I then attached a piece of 3″ wide peel ply across the front by taping it at each end.

Here’s a not-so-great shot of the peel ply, which you can just make out the edge of at the top of the dam.

I then finished securing the dam with tape, and one small finish nail in the center.  I also placed a couple of sandbags pressing against the aft side of the dam to keep it nice and tight against the aft edges of the sump walls.  The middle rib dips forward just a bit which is fine because I actual wanted a bit of a dished shape for a better seat contour.  But really, it’s not much at all.   [Also note: the dam looks really askew in these pics, but it must be the camera angle because the sump sides are not different lengths as it looks to be portrayed in these pics].

I then mixed up a bunch of micro and stuffed it down in the corners along the intersection of the dam and the sump floor.  I then laid up 1 ply of BID onto the floor and dam front face (leaning forward) and also overlapping a bit onto the sidewalls.  I then let the layup alone to cure for a few hours before pouring in the micro floor contour.  Again, I am only laying up one side at a time to allow each layup to cure a bit before pouring in the micro, thus alleviating having to peel ply one side since I need to jack up the plane in a certain configuration for the floor to be “level” and cure to provide a correct flow.

I also cut to length and then taped up the bottom side of a 1.5″ wide Aircraft Spruce shipping board with clear packing tape before mounting it on the front top edge of the sump, overhanging aft over each sump tank an inch from the front sump wall.  After creating a micro fillet in the front top corner, I then laid up 2 plies of BID on the underside of the board overlapping onto the top aft of the front wall, and a little bit onto each sidewall.  This 1″ overhang will create a “top cap” that will give me more area to flox the sump top on before glassing the outside of it to the external sides of the sump.

I then went to dinner with a buddy of mine, and upon returning –at the 4 hour cure mark– I placed a 4×4 under the left wheel and one under the front wheel as well. I then whipped up some E-Z Poxy and made some wet, just soupy, micro.  I needed 2 batches to get the micro right and I had to adjust the elevation of both the front and left side of the aircraft to get the micro to spread out towards and up to the fuel drain valve.

I have to say pouring in the micro soup was a bit of a compromise.  I used as much micro as I could to lighten up the epoxy in the micro pour, but it took a fair amount.  I did’t originally shape the floor for water runoff aggressively at the beginning since I wanted A) the floor to have some depth to it to allow the installation of the fuel drain valves up deeper into the belly skin, and B) I needed to be careful around the outboard sides of the cutout floor foam because the embedded brake lines were very close to the outboard edges of the newly created fuel sump floor.

The consequence of all this is that I estimate I lost about a third of a gallon in volume tonight by pouring this micro in place, leaving me with about 1 gallon in this sump tank. Obviously, this leaves me with an estimated 2 gallons total in the sump tanks if this plays out the same on the right side.  I will of course have to confirm the actual capacity of each sump tank after I get them built.

Tomorrow will be a light build day, but I do plan on getting the right side dam layup done, and the subsequent micro floor contouring poured into place so I can hit the ground running on Monday.

 

 

Chapter 21 – Last one down

Today I finished installing the vertical components of the thigh support fuel sump by glassing in the sump right wall.  As with the left wall I used 1 ply BID and 1 ply Kevlar on the interior tapes, and 2-ply BID tapes on the exterior side — all with E-Z Poxy.

Here’s a shot from the aft side of the fuel sump right exterior wall.

I went to visit some friends and about 8 hours later I returned home, pulled the peel ply, and then cleaned up the layups a bit.

Again, here’s a shot from the aft side of the sump right side wall.

I then checked the fit of both Holley Hydramats, which were spot on. You may note that in the pics below I also installed the fuel drain valves to check fit and clearance with the Hydramats.

I was curious about the amount of fuel these fuel sump tanks will hold so I worked up a quick estimate which comes up to about 1.3 gallons each, so around 2.6 gallons total combined fuel in the fuel sump tanks.

Tomorrow I’ll start work on the sump top / thigh support seat build and installation.

 

Chapter 21 – Fuel sump walls

Today I started out by cleaning up the 2 oil line reducer fitting mounting holes in what makes for a mini-bulkhead for the pair.  I then test fitted the oil heat line reducer fittings in the holes.

I spent a good bit cutting out 4 prepreg setups of BID and BID/Kevlar tapes for the sump left wall installation.

Here are the tapes wetted out with E-Z Poxy.

I then floxed/micro’d and glassed the sump left wall into place.

I then peel plied all the sump left wall install layups.

Another shot of the sump left wall install.  Immediately following taking this pic, I threw these layups under heat lamps.

I then pretty much repeated the process — sans Kevlar, and a second ply of BID– to flox in and layup the corner tapes to install the sump middle rib.

Here’s a closer shot of the flox & BID around the left tank fuel line coming through the sump middle rib.

And a shot of the other side.

And finally, a shot of both outside walls and middle rib.  As of now, I just have the right wall to install.

And here’s a shot of the fuel sump left wall after I pulled the peel ply and cleaned up the layups.

Part of that cleanup included, once again, cutting the freshly laid up glass out of the oil heat lines reducer fittings.

Tomorrow I plan on glassing in the sump right wall, and that will be pretty much it since I have plans for tomorrow evening.