Chapter 22/23 – Engine Inspection

Today was pack-up, load-out and departure day for taking another load of stuff down to North Carolina.  However, Marco pulled a surprise engine inspection on me so I HAD to stop what I was doing so he could critique the engine, and everything else I was doing! ha! Actually he had training at Dulles, so he stopped by for just a few minutes, checked out the panel and the engine quickly before we headed off to a quick lunch at the Peruvian chicken joint just down the road.  Then off he went back to Chesapeake and I got busy loading up the trailer again.

When we returned from lunch my ACS order had been delivered with the box sitting on the front porch.  The order included the somewhat pricey Lycoming bolt for the starter.

And the replacement crankcase vent fitting with the 5/8″ barb to fit the SlimeFighter oil-water vapor unit that I’ll be testing out . . . at a minimum I simply need a fitting to attach a 5/8″ hose to.

I also received the last of the input sensors for my EIS/EFIS system: the Crazed Pilot Hall Effect sensor that I’ll be using to provide a simple Ammeter function to show whether the battery is getting charging current, and how much it’s getting (either positive or negative flow).  As I mentioned before, with this unit the sensor is easily attached to any cable with zip ties as compared to the donut style Hall Effect sensors that typically must be placed onto the cable prior to terminating both ends of the cable.  In addition, this unit is 12V (5V version also available) so I can run it off of ship’s battery bus power vs. having to connect it to either the EIS4000 or my 12V-to-5V converter, the latter which is starting to fill up quickly with other components.

Finally, this unit is Bob Nuckolls approved as far as this odd style of Hall Effect sensor being viable for use to input data into our modern EFIS systems (again, 9V battery shown merely for size comparison).

Again, I’ll be off the grid for about a week.  Then I’ll be back on the build hot ‘n heavy when I return from NC.

 

 

Chapter 22/23 – Electrical Workbench

Starting off, I just want to say that this will most likely be my last post for about a week since I’m hauling another load of household goods down to North Carolina in prep for my move there later this year.

One thing I did that was both helpful in the move sense and with my Long-EZ build was that I tore down the cockpit mockup/simulator that I never really did use much.  I then used the bottom base as a temporary TV stand so that I could pack up and move the actual TV stand, and then I dismantled the top part that made up the actual fuselage mockup.

With the sides of the fuselage mockup I then built an electrical work bench that will also serve to help store a myriad of electrical-related aircraft stuff that was situated on my dining room table, which –you guessed it!– is getting hauled down to NC this trip.

The pegboard that is now mounted on top of the electrical work bench was attached to the storage shelf in my shop right next to my fold down glass cutting table.  Since I’m emptying the majority of that shelf, and no longer need this pegboard down in the shop, I repurposed it to be able to organize my electrical components (note the clear plastic box to the left jammed full of bags of wiring assemblies and harnesses).

What was once the seat back in my cockpit mockup now serves as my end table (the actual end table is visible at the bottom of the pic).  The coffee table (AKA “my work desk”) and round bar-top table that currently holds up the instrument panel mockup are both going as well, so when I return I’ll be building a couple more temporary tables for the remainder of my time in this house.  Obviously tables & workbenches that I can disassemble in no time at all.

As far as actual aircraft stuff, one item that I just received is my brass 90° fuel pump overboard vent fitting.  I have to say that when I simply did a test install for this fitting, I could tell that it is going to be REALLY close to the firewall with the engine installed.  I might be required to provide a dished-out clearance on the firewall for both this fitting and possibly the B&C SD-8 backup alternator as well.  However, I will also be assessing options for a lower profile fitting (perhaps a banjo style) that might provide better clearance.

My last item to report is that I also received the Thermal Fan Controller that will control both fans in the D-Deck/Turtleback/GIB Headrest that will allow cooling for the SD-8 voltage regulator, SD-8 bridge rectifier and Electroair EI control unit, as well as all the other electrical components in that compartment (sorry for the crappy pic).

An aft side view of the thermal fan controller.  I placed the 9V batteries in the pic just as a reference for the size of this unit.  In addition to being quite small, it’s as light as a feather.

The weather has continued to be quite cold here…. again, not freezing, but pretty darn close at night while the days have been in the 40s to maybe low 50s.  Hopefully when I return from my weeklong sojourn down to NC the weather will have improved enough to start some shop work.

 

 

Chapter 22/23 – Starter-Alternator Link

Well, I know I said that I was going to get back to my To-Do task list today… well, I didn’t. Since I posted my engine pics on the FaceBook Rutan group page, I’ve actually been quite busy either answering questions or researching topics that I may not have been as clear on as I originally thought.

Two such distinct topics were corrosion control (i.e. Alodine or paint) for the outer/upper cylinders.  The other topic surrounded the viability and safety of the PMag Electronic Ignition unit . . . let’s just say enough questions to cause me to take pause to research (for many hours) these stated issues regarding the PMag.  Although I will stick with the PMag and do believe it will work well for my configuration, I have learned a lot during this collaboration process and have a much better understanding and appreciation for the PMag unit, both in its good operations and when things go south.

I went out for a quick bit early this evening and checked the mail when I returned.  My alternator-starter support link had arrived, so I quickly tested out its fit.  It took a bit of measuring and trial & error to finally get it installed (there’s no instructions btw) the only way it will actually fit on both units.

However, there is a bit of gap (~0.110″) between the link and the alternator bracket that I’ll need to fill in with washers during the final installation.

For a bit I thought maybe the link went on the inside of the alternator mounting crossbar, but when I measured, the hole on the link attachment was 0.44″ in diameter while the crossbar was 0.49″ in diameter.  Obviously the link couldn’t fit over this crossbar (blue arrow below) which then mandated that it be mounted on the aft surface of each component (alternator & starter) bracket.

I took a pic last year at Rough River of Marco’s wingtip light cover because I thought it was pretty darn cool.  I asked the builder of Marco’s plane, Terry Lamp, where he got it.  He stated he picked it up off a hangar mate, but beyond that he had no recollection where the set came from.  Well, when I opened up the Sq. III Newsletter this morning, I was pleased to see that someone who makes these (not sure if it’s the original maker or not) is selling them.

Upon seeing the Sq. III writeup, I immediately fired off an order to the guy who makes them, Anthony.  I seriously plan on incorporating these Light Covers into my design!

Ok, tomorrow I’ll try to get back to my build task list for at least a few hours.

 

Chapter 23 – Engine Miscellaneous

Since I brought the engine back home to my shop, I’ve been doing a fair bit of mock engine component installs and taking note of what I’ll need on hand to finish the engine installation when the time comes.

One such subject item are the firewall pass thrus.  As I reported last week, I picked up a 1/2″ ID stainless steel firewall pass thru and liked the concept so much I ordered another 2 of them to finish off my acquisition tasks for purchasing firewall pass thrus.

After a test install of the alternator and starter, I was also able to measure and then order the appropriate alternator-to-starter support link (1.794″ version) from B&C Avionics.

I also identified a myriad number of hardware/fitting pieces that will need to be on hand to install the starter, fuel lines, exhaust pipes, etc.  Although I did identify a bunch of these items, I have not yet ordered them as I am building an order currently on ACS.

Finally, I was able to grab the parts I needed to finish off the Engine Dehydrator System. So, as I often do, I made a video to provide an overview of this system.

Tomorrow I’ll get back to the grind of completing items off my task list.  I only have a few solid build days left before I need to start packing –once again– for yet another trip to haul a load of household stuff down to NC.

 

 

Chapter 23 – Engine Build: Phase II

I started out this morning at around 0630, packed up the truck with all my engine accoutrements and headed off on my 1.5 hour trek up to Winchester, Virginia for the last phase of my engine build.  I had already talked to the builder, Tom, who let me know that during some down time in between engine builds that they installed the Superior cold air induction sump and the high pressure fuel pump, and sure enough that is exactly what I found when I arrived.

Here’s the high pressure fuel pump mid-picture, just to the right of the PMag ignition.

Here are a couple wider angle shots showing more of the Superior cold air induction sump.

Although it seemed they were eager to pack up the engine and for me to get it out of their hair, I did want them to finish installing the fuel injector nozzles, the fuel injector distribution spider (and bracket) and the 1/8″ stainless steel lines in between.  Another engine builder that I hadn’t met yet, Larry, undertook the task to hook up the fuel injection lines.

With the topside fuel injection components and lines in place, and after Frank I messed around installing, moving and reinstalling some AN fittings for the main oil line and the oil heat system return line, Frank and Larry then wrapped up the engine for its trip to MY shop.

Here’s a shot of the engine wrapping to keep any potential precipitation off of it.

With such a large shop, it was a bit of a trek to get the engine down to the other end to put it in my truck, but Frank and Larry dug deep and somehow mustered the internal strength required to make it happen!

And here we go…. history in the making.

The three of us got the engine set in place with thick foam-rubber pads and then strapped it down.

An hour and a half later, both the plastic wrap and tie-down tasks had worked well, and the engine was still right in place.

I’ll digress just a bit, because before I could unload the engine I had to finish Phase III of my shop cleaning and organizing to have enough room to maneuver the engine hoist. I wanted to move the fuselage dolly so that one end was against the side wall with the other end sticking out in space, which would still be less obtrusive than it’s shown here.

However, with my fuselage dolly also being my canopy storage container, I wanted to get the canopy out of it since I plan on starting the canopy build in the next month or so.

I was impressed at how good of shape the canopy looked after it’s multi-year hibernation in the fuselage dolly.

Plus I would now get the benefit of MORE STORAGE SPACE!

With my shop furniture cleaning and rearranging out of the way, I then got down to business getting the engine out of my truck and into my shop… I started by carefully removing all the tiedown straps.

After a brief 30-min break to recharge the engine hoist with hydraulic fluid, I then backed up the truck to the shop entrance, set the engine hoist in place, and clamped the hook onto the engine.

I carefully lifted the engine up above the truck bed, but since the shop floor slants down, both of engine hoist wheels were over the lip at the door threshold.  No matter what I tried, I just didn’t have a good angle to get the wheels over the lip.  I chocked the engine hoist wheels to ensure it didn’t move, and then very slowly and carefully pulled the truck forward.

With the application of some basic fulcrum and leverage techniques, using some spare dunnage, I was able to get the engine where it belongs . . .

IN MY SHOP!!!

Here’s one of many pics of the engine.

And another after I closed the main door and got to work checking out a number of things on the engine.

I spent a good bit of time assessing how the Silver Hawk fuel injection servo would get mounted to the cold air induction plenum.

Here’s another side view with the fuel injection spider lines somewhat visible.

Also, I was VERY happy that the guys at AERO Engines hooked me up with a short dipstick and oil filler neck! Thanks guys!

Although a minor detail, I also thought it was great of them to actually install a new oil filter and wire tie it in place for me…. as you can see in the below view of the accessory case end.

Here’s a low-angle shot of the front of the engine with the cold air induction oil sump and plenum in view, as well as the high pressure fuel pump.

Although I mentioned it on my last engine post, I really like the snazzy chrome style “Titan” valve cover plates vs the old metal painted Lycoming ones…. just my preference of course.

I then temp-mounted the starter to check out the fit and also see what hardware I would need to order for mounting it, if any (I actually need to order ALL the hardware for it).

I then mounted the alternator to check for fitting and potential hardware requirements.  Moreover, I wanted to check the mounting distance from the alternator to the starter which would tell me which B&C cross link I would need to order.

In addition, I mounted the spark plug dehydrators, put desiccant in a bunch of the open orifices and taped them closed with painters’ tape.

I am very happy that this significant piece of the puzzle in my build is essentially in place.  Of course there are still a myriad of minor bits to acquire, installations to do and deconflicting issues to be done, but it’s a great feeling having this thing in MY shop!

Tomorrow a goal is to get the engine dehydrator hooked up and ensure I keep the internals on this engine DRY.

Ok… back to it.

 

Chapter 22/23 – Turning the tide

Today I started out by wiring up the instrument panel dimmer that handles the dimming for the Trio Autopilot, TruTrak ADI, Vertical compass card, both AG6 Warning Annunciators and possibly the Dynon intercom.

As you see in the pic below, the setup and wiring of this dimmer is much more user friendly than the dimmer I trashed yesterday, with the wire ports on this one clearly identified.

After wiring up the dimmer above, I then took a short video to provide an overview of both dimmers.  So without further ado, I’ll let the video tell the rest of the story:

I then spent the rest of the afternoon and evening doing some much needed spring cleaning in the shop.  This is really just the first round of cleaning, and the goal tonight was to gain access to, and then retrieve, the engine hoist as it will be needed here shortly to move my hefty engine around (yay!).

I started by cleaning off both the glass cutting table (a view I haven’t seen in a LONG while) and the fuselage dolly beneath it.

I then stowed the glass cutting table (again, it’s been a while).  Not seen is the myriad of stuff I took to the back room in prep for packing it up and moving it down to North Carolina.

After another hour+ of cleaning and organizing, I gained access to the shop closet where I had stored the engine hoist.  The hoist was in the back of the closet, so I had to move a ton of blue wing foam [that I’m saving for the nose] and boxes of other foam.

Finally, I carefully worked this big monster out of the shop closet and managed not to destroy anything.  I’m hoping the next time I post pictures of this bad boy it will have an engine hanging from it.

Tomorrow I’ll be heading up to Winchester, Virginia to finish (hopefully!) the engine.  If all goes well I’ll be hauling that baby home tomorrow afternoon (again, fingers crossed!).

 

Chapter 22 – Strike 1, Strike 2 . . .

And strike 3!  I’m out!

Or maybe the title of this blog post should have been: “How to destroy a dimmer” . . .

Hmmm….?

Well, below is the subject dimmer.  I pulled the photo of this dimmer unit off of Stein’s site, although I did not buy this specific dimmer from Stein.  I wanted this pic because it shows the SOUSOO (“Sockets of Unknown Style or Origin”) in the lower right corner.  Actually, I can spot right off that the terminals in this pic are different (read: standard)than what came with mine, which NONE of my plethora of crimpers worked on the very odd esoteric terminals included with my dimmer.

I want to start off by saying that mistakes, redos and rework is often the bane of the homebuilder.  Moreover, although sometimes there are issues with the products, I am very, very happy that people make products at home to sell to (other) builders.  Now, that being said, I am NOT a fan of this dimmer.  Or more specifically, the mechanics required surrounding the installation of this dimmer.

The instructions were vague enough that I got the terminals –which were all grossly disfigured to start with after my multiple attempts to crimp simple 22AWG wires to these frail terminal bodies– installed backwards . . . again there was no clear instructions on which crimper to use (etc.).

Thus, when I hooked it up and tested it on an LED, it didn’t work.  Then after taking some readings with my multimeter, I realized it was all in reverse.  Ok, I’ll just cut the lines and resolder the leads back on in reverse.  The crimps were so bad/frail that the wire-stripping process on the red power wire broke the socket in half, merely yanking the half-terminated wire right out of the terminal socket.   On the black ground wire it wasn’t quite as ugly, with the wire simply and cleanly exiting the terminal altogether, leaving it in the connector block.

So, with no usable connector and no extra sockets (I couldn’t have extricated the broken or stuck terminals anyway), I simply broke the plastic housing away on the dimmer itself to expose the 4 male pins to allow me to solder the wires right to the pins.

Improvise, adapt and overcome… right?!

Well, in my continuing comedy of errors, I noted on the first two pins that the solder was just not wetting out well.  Sometimes it can be a little finicky, but I will note for the record that the risk of using a soldering iron with the heat dial on the handle is exactly what happened here: it was turned down about 100° C off max (which is required on this soldering iron).  This meant my “dwell time” in fiddling with getting the solder to wet out was 2-3 times longer than it would have normally been.

No biggie (I was unaware of this at the time… so ignorance was bliss for about 15 minutes), since I found the issue by the third pin and quickly resoldered the first two pins. I then covered all my good solder joints with some nice heat shrink and all looked ok.  Here’s the finished dimmer wire connections, round 2.

And a closer shot of the soldered wire connections.

I then remounted the dimmer in my panel mockup, connected the power, ground and LED test light leads and fired up the panel.  Nothing.  I tried and tried different configurations, popped 2 (more) fuses in trying to get voltage readings off the tiny board…. and eventually pulled it off the panel to inspect it.

In inspecting the PCB, it looks as if my soldering dwell time (we’re talking 6-8 seconds vs 2-3 seconds) actually caused some cross-flow of solder on the board itself.  A bit unusual for what I’ve experienced, but it’s the only thing I can figure out, because after 20 minutes of messing around with the dimmer, it was still simply INOP.

Thus, I’ll save the heat shrink as the most expensive heat shrink I’ll probably ever buy, and order a new dimmer…just not another of this make, but rather another one of these:

I’m not a fan of hoity-toity, fancy-schmancy esoteric connectors that are difficult to work and frail in construction.  For something along the lines of a dimmer I’ll use screw post terminal blocks any day of the week and leave the “cool stuff” where it belongs, in the garbage can.

So, on my next ACS order (of course I just fired off an order earlier today!) I’ll order a new dimmer to replace this POS one.  Tomorrow will be shop cleaning/organizing day since, if all goes well, I’ll be bringing my engine back home Wednesday (fingers crossed!).

 

Chapter 22 – Electronic Ignition Switches

I started off today with yet another attempt at getting the wiring for the dimmers knocked out, thus my first task was to review the wiring diagram.  Well, as soon as I opened my wiring book my eyes went straight to the fuel site gage wiring.  Hmm…. well, looked like I totally forgot to wire in the 470 Ohm LED light resistor at the beginning of the fuel site gage LED wire lead.  Thankfully this end of the fuel site gage video camera & LED light leads cable is already torn apart having just looked for (and found) the electrical short.

I then removed the heat shrink from the fuel site gage LED light wires to then insert a 470 Ohm resistor in series on the positive power wire (red).  I then soldered it in place.

And of course reapplied some more heat shrink over the solder joints.

And secured both fuel site gage LED wire leads together with heat shrink.

In my latest delivered Mouser order I received the 2 slide switches that I had ordered (correctly this time!), one for the PMag “A” Power Curve to “B” Power curve switch (sw091) and the other for the Electroair MAP sensor signal cutoff switch used in troubleshooting (sw090).  I swapped the labels out with the mini toggle switches that at one point I had planned on using, and then got to work terminating the ends of the wires with narrow PIDG Fast-ON terminals.

After I crimped on the pair of Fast-ON terminals, I then applied heat shrink to the connectors and overlapping onto the wires.  I don’t know why I didn’t clue in on this earlier (it takes me a while to “get it” sometimes!), but I figured that I’ll start actually covering the business –exposed– end of a lot more of my Fast-ON terminals.

Here’s the entire setup for my PMag “A” ⇔ “B” Power Curve setting switch and my 9-pin D-Sub serial I/O cable to connect a laptop to the PMag unit to allow for use of the EICAD program.

I then prepped the Electroair MAP sensor signal wire by cutting it and prepping each for termination with a narrow PIDG Fast-ON terminal.

And here’s the Electroair setup showing the entire wiring harness for the Electroair EI control unit, the now switched green MAP sensor wire and the actual Electroair MAP sensor unit itself.

I figured I would add one more thing for show & tell, and that’s my 1/2″ ID stainless steel threaded firewall pass-thru that I picked up to assess.  As with all stainless steel, it’s a bit hefty currently, but when I end up lopping off the majority of the threaded part it should weigh in at about 2 oz. as mounted on the firewall.  I should say IF it gets mounted since I’m still in R&D assessment mode.

Here’s an aft shot of my 1/2″ ID stainless steel threaded firewall pass-thru.

A couple more things that of note build-wise is that although I have been attempting to knock out the dimmers, I just did a “standard” software update on my Mac laptop that has pretty much thrashed it.  I spent hours removing and backing up all my Gigs of build pics and build files, etc. to no avail.  It’s now very unstable and slow and I’ll have to contend with this sideline issue.

I did do a thorough assessment of my pilot map light and did a circuit redesign after some mental armchair flying to change the switch from

  • TOP: White
  • MIDDLE: Off
  • BOTTOM: Red

to

  • TOP: White
  • MIDDLE: Red
  • BOTTOM: Off

I was able to this by swapping out the switch from an ON-OFF-ON switch to a spare progressive ON-ON-ON switch I had on hand.  As you can see, this allows full down to be “OFF” to minimize having to try to nail the middle position during, say, turbulence.  Plus, it really does make it progressive and much easier to manipulate without looking, especially in trying to stay clear of the white light position during night ops.

My other piece of noteworthy news is that I spoke with my engine builder and we’re scheduled to finish the engine build this coming Wednesday, Feb 28th.

Over the next few days –in addition to some final electrical system taskers for the time being– I’ll be doing some major shop cleanup both in prep for the upcoming (I hope!) good shop build weather, and to organize space for the engine.

Chapter 22 – Video Camera Cable Test

My social calendar has actually been a bit fuller this weekend, putting me a bit farther behind on my build goals vs. what I wanted to accomplish.  Being out with my buddy last night, sleeping in a bit, getting a package with some components in it, doing more research, going down some rabbit holes, doing some more research, ordering more parts, all put a sizable dent in my day.

That all being said, I love when pieces of my various puzzles fall into place, and literally within days of me acquiring my D-Deck cooling and exhaust fans, and my pondering a solution for triggering them on an “as needed” vs continually on basis [which could A) prematurely wear out the fans and B) perhaps make the operating temp too cool for one or more components] . . . Well, if you read this month’s Kitplanes Magazine you may have noted an article written in the back by Jim Weir, of plastic airplane antenna kit fame, discussing thermal fan controllers to manipulate the on/off of component cooling fans based on TEMPERATURE.

Perfect!  As I was assessing my options of either building Jim’s version or buying one OTS, I ran across a nifty little unit on coolerguys.com that I could merely plug my two fans into and hook up power and ground and Voila! … solution integrated and complete.  My fans would then be controlled via temp, turning on when the internal GIB headrest temps reach ~88° F and turning off at 80° F (about a 10° higher set point than what Jim proposes in his article, but for plug-n-play convenience in such a small footprint, I’ll eat the extra 10°).  I found the unit on Amazon along with some other aircraft stuff I needed, pulled the trigger on the order and then spent 10 minutes updating my electrical diagram.  Thus, in the course of about 45 minutes I was able to put my fan control ops question to bed.

I then figured I should test out the fuel site gage video camera cable I made last night.  I grabbed the other end of the wire connector I purchased for the 5V camera (#3) and wired it into panel and power.  Then connected the yellow video lead up with a patch cord to check the video signal.   [The connector on the camera #3 side of this long cable allowed me to test the fuel site gage video camera at the opposite end, but since the wires are not accessible on the other end I won’t be able to test video camera #3, the topside-looking-aft video camera, until I cut this long cable in half . . . which I’ll do once I finalize my determination of required cable lengths].

Since I had plenty of cable, I ran it out a bit and set the camera up to look at something nicer than just indoors…. I figured my deck would offer a better view.

After double checking all the connections I fired up the panel and quickly set the left inset to show video.  Hmmm, a blue screen & NO video.  I rechecked my connections, checked the wiring colors since the solid red, yellow, black video camera leads get translated over to the white/orange, white/blue and white/green cable wires.  Ok, tried it again…. blue screen/no video!

I then tested the cable out (again) by doing continuity tests for each wire… good.  Hmmm, then I checked the leads again, and then checked the fuse…. ahhh, the fuse had popped. In my mind this had clearly been an earlier event (duh!) so I did what any moron would do, I shoved another good fuse into the slot just to be met with a small pop!  Well, there was my answer: I had a short … And 2 dead fuses.

After spending 5 minutes deconstructing (“destroying”) my beautiful heat shrink, I pulled the wires apart and Shazam, it did the trick.

As you can see in the inset below there is a nice video feed of the chiminea on my back deck.  Definitely good enough video quality for viewing the fuel site gage.

I’ll wait until I cut the long cable (remember, there are video cameras connected at both ends) before carefully adding more heat shrink to the wires, after ensuring there will be no more shorts of course.

I then went to yet another dinner out with some friends so that was the end of the build for this evening.

 

Chapter 22 – Yay, more harnesses!

Today I received my Mouser order which included the rather robust 30A DPDT relay that will replace the current S704-1 SPDT relay in the SD-8 backup alternator system.  The DPDT that I bought is admittedly a bit chunky, but it is a very robust unit and has good specs…. specs I confirmed with B&C would work fine to drive the SD-8 circuitry.

Here’s a closer shot of the new DPDT relay (on the right) that I’ll replace the current SPDT S704-1 relay (on the left) with.  As a side note, I used 3 of this model DPDT relay to drive my implementation of Marc Zeitlin’s new AEX system.  As a reminder, here I’m using this new relay to allow me to add a control circuit –linked to the SD-8 coming online– to disconnect the IBBS charging circuit while the actual IBBS unit itself stays powered up.

I then swapped out the wiring terminals from the S704-1 to the new DPDT relay.  The rather robust diode pointing to the lower left corner (above), and the short red wire pointing up (below) will be joined with the red power wire (twisted with black ground) coming in from the large blue capacitor (4 pics below) once the system is installed in the aircraft.  The connected/bundled gray wire is the new added control wire that will terminate at the coil post of relay #15 in the nose (I added relay #15 this past week to the IBBS wiring harness).

Here’s a couple shots of the new SD-8 DPDT relay now in service.

And here’s a shot of the new SD-8 DPDT relay with a clear view of the Backup Alternator Overvoltage Protection device wired in place (upper left corner).

Here’s a shot of the entire SD-8 system, minus only the PM alternator itself… which is currently mounted to the vacuum pad on the engine at AERO Engines up in Winchester, VA.  To reiterate, the big diode and unconnected short red wire (above) will be joined with the red power wire (twisted with black ground) coming in from the large blue capacitor (below) once the system is installed in the aircraft.

With the new relay situated in the middle in the pic below, starting from upper left corner the big red wire is the power feed from the SD-8 system to the battery side of the battery contactor.  This wire will feed the battery and E-Bus if I’m using SD-8 only power after having a main alternator failure.  Moving CW, the red & black twisted pair of wires is the main system power: 12V+ via the new DPDT relay with ground terminating at the hell hole ground bus. The big blue capacitor, the SD-8 voltage regulator, and the self-excite bridge rectifier are then all visible.  Again we have the entire reason for adding the new DPDT relay: the gray control wire to the IBBS recharging circuit disconnecting relay #15 in the nose, and then the diminutive but super-important OverVoltage Protection device (hanging down, off the relay) and finally the white wire that goes to the SD-8 on/off switch on the panel.

After finishing the SD-8 system relay swap, I then got back to finishing up some wiring cables, with my initial focus on the second/final cable for the fuel site gage video camera and LED light.

I started off with the second video camera for the fuel site gage.  Note that I haven’t identified what camera goes to what fuel site gage, since the length of cable required for install will drive which video camera gets mounted on which side.

I then trimmed off the un-required audio RCA jack lead (white).

And then cut the video lead RCA jack, leaving a pigtail to splice the wires into the 5-wire cable.

And also did the same for the power feed jack.  I then prepped the wires for getting solder spliced into the main 5-wire cable.

Skipping ahead, having solder-spliced all the video camera leads to the 5-wire cable (again, 5 x 24AWG wires with 3 wires used for video camera and the remaining 2 wires for the fuel site gage LED light). I then solder spliced the red and black power leads to the fuel site gage LED light.  I also covered all the solder splices with heat shrink.

Here’s a shot of the entire aft end of the is fuel site gage video camera and LED light power cable.

And a closer shot of just the fuel site gage video camera wiring.

On the other end of this lengthy 5x 24AWG wire cable I then solder spliced in the 3-wire connector for the topside-looking-aft 5V video camera.  After completing the solder splices, I normally feed the heat shrink from the opposite end, but kinda forgot the other end of this cable is occupied, so I didn’t finish the job off as I would with heat shrink.  No biggie of course since I’ll do it before final install when I figure out actual cable length requirements & split this long cable –with video camera #2 & #3 hanging off each end– in two.

As a point of note, except for some panel-side wire lead extensions I’ll solder on each of these camera harnesses, this is the last of cable building for video cameras (as far as deconstructing and rebuilding the cables) I need to do for my video camera system since the bottom-looking-aft camera will use a standard video connection cable (sans audio jacks).

Tomorrow I’ll continue with my electrical tasks until again, the weather gets a bit warmer. Pressing on!